Jump to content
SAU Community

How Safe Is 1.0 Bar

BNR

By BNR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BNR Enthusiast

BNR

Posted
Posted

hey

ive seen in magazines that on the r32 GTR you can take out some kind of marbel in one of the boost pipes and its ment to rise the boost to 1.0 bar.

how safe is this to do if the rest of your car is just stock with a cat back exhaust ?

im thinking of doing it because its free ! but i dont know if it will damage the motor in any way

whats everyone think ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79627-how-safe-is-10-bar/
Share on other sites
lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Bit of misinformation in this thread IMHO.

There is a boost restrictor in one of the vacuum hoses. Yes, you can remove it and its unlikely to damage your engine. However, you may well manage to destroy a turbo or two given they have ceramic exhaust wheels and are probably getting on for 15-years old.

Plus you can be unlucky and have bits of the exhaust wheel sucked back in to the engine which will then probably need a complete rebuild.

Lucien.

itbmils Proficient

itbmils

Posted
Posted

OK

I did mine too - and yes it was MUCH quicker and it was very easy to do (only took 2 mins)

BUT

I only did it once I had resigned myself to a full rebuild anyway - and my motor only lasted 6 months after doing it. My motor was already shagged tho - and may not have lasted too long anyway. Turbos were fine however. I don't know about 1.8 bar (26psi) however on std turbos – I would not even push my N1s that hard – I would have thought 1.3 (18psi) was already too high.

The REAL problem is - at std boost even a GTR can feel a bit on the sluggish side – IMHO

Full rebuild is now complete – car running MUCH better with 300awkw :D

hope this helps

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
Lucien, the turbos should be fine at up to 1 bar.

This isnt like the gts-t's - they dont get as hot as the one single turbo, because there are two of them.

They should be fine but he also should be made aware of all the consequences if one of his turbos is getting a bit tired. 10-15 years of thousands and thousands of RPM takes its toll.

Lucien.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

I've been running around 1-1.1bar on my stock 33GTR turbos for 18months or so, it came like that from the previous owner, so who knows how long before that he was running it.

By just removing the restricter you won't get 1 bar, a little under, and if you dont have a full exaust then a little less once again. I'd remove it if i were you. But everything lwells said is right - the turbos could be tired and they could let go, this will just speed up the process of them letting go... If you don't remove the restricter they may last 12 months, if you do remove it they may only last 6months etc... its up to you. The biggest thing to worry about is if they do let go, the exaust wheels getting sucked back into the engine and damaging pistons.... so if you hear a bang, keep your foot to the floor so the exaust wheel gets blown out the exaust :D

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted

be so carefull with std r32 turbos as there are a time bomb and tho the hp you make will not damage the motor if the ceramic wheel let go under full noise you could very well be needing a full motor rebuild as they tend to through bit of ceramic back into the engine damaging valve and rings etc etc I AM NOT JOKING HERE replace the std turbos ASAP i would put this upgrade before all overs.

ps i have seen three motor damaged like this in the last 18-20 months

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
be so carefull with std r32 turbos as there are a time bomb and tho the hp you make will not damage the motor if the ceramic wheel let go under full noise you could very well be needing a full motor rebuild as they tend to through bit of ceramic back into the engine damaging valve and rings etc etc I AM NOT JOKING HERE replace the std turbos ASAP i would put this upgrade before all overs.

ps i have seen three motor damaged like this in the last 18-20 months

I totaly agree with that statement , i have seen several stuffed engines when one of the turbos lets go .

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

My turbos let go. Running standard boost. Just old.

Exhaust wheel off one came off completley, went and said G'Day to the cat. like it down there... stayed. The other was just damaged since the day I bought it, I think it went down there too. Must be unlucky if they get sucked BACK into an engine, I thought the exhaust gas would typically blow it out.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
My turbos let go. Running standard boost. Just old.

Exhaust wheel off one came off completley, went and said G'Day to the cat. like it down there... stayed. The other was just damaged since the day I bought it, I think it went down there too. Must be unlucky if they get sucked BACK into an engine, I thought the exhaust gas would typically blow it out.

The ones i have seen damage motors seem to happen up high load (high rpm spool)and the wheel more explodes into tiny pieces and ceramic dust, and if you stop and think how much velocity would this ceramic pieces have coming off the wheel doing how many thousand rpm? And i at first didnt think it would but seen to many know to dont it. The pieces damage valves and rings and even bounce around in between the piston and head for a bit, not pretty.Plus the ceramic dust is so abrasive.

I'm just glad mine let go at about 2000rpm on cold motor idling of from the stop lights in the morning on the way to work (tho i didnt think myself lucky at the time tho) found the wheel mostly intact in the exhaust.

BNR Enthusiast

BNR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From reading this it doesnt sound to safe to up the boost on standard R32 turbos so im not sure if i will do it as i dont want to damage anything. The cars got about 85,000 on it at the moment so im not sure if that effects anything.

I was reading speed and they said its safe to do so im not sure. The only thing they were conserned about was the motor running to lean.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
From reading this it doesnt sound to safe to up the boost on standard R32 turbos so im not sure if i will do it as i dont want to damage anything. The cars got about 85,000 on it at the moment so im not sure if that effects anything.

I was reading speed and they said its safe to do so im not sure. The only thing they were conserned about was the motor running to lean.

If you hook out the restrictor buy yourself a cheap (<$100) mechanical bleed valve and you can then set the boost at whatever level you like.

14lb or less is fine for a GT-R. The real reason the restrictor is in the line is to get the car under the 280PS limitation in Japan. Why else do you think they make it so easy? Mine has been running on just over 13lb for a couple of years & is fine.

The stock ECU's run seriously fat on fuel - you won't lean the motor out.

As an aside - don't place too much faith in the boys from Speed magazine. IMHO, their understanding is fairly shallow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...