Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Wanted to get my 32 GTR re-tuned for more boost & timing, but i dont want to drive all the way down the coast to PITS again. What are peoples experiences with GTR's and tuning in Brisbane??

I have heard that Archie at Mazfix does a good job....has anyone used Brisbane Tuning & turbo at Woolloongabba??

Also Mercury, Charlies Motors, APC??

Cheers

Francisco

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79694-tuning-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

Just had my GTR tuned at Brisbane Tuning & Turbo Centre, they fixed my problem straight away. Can highly recomend them, just don't listen to the mechanics as they bag your car while they are working on it!! :) But John has a fair bit of knowledge about GTR's, he has an old Zed car with an RB26 transplant (putting out 547HP at the wheels), his son drives a GTR and one of the mechanics (the one bagging the wheels on my car) has one too.

I have heard that Archie at Mazfix does a good job....has anyone used Brisbane Tuning & turbo at Woolloongabba??

DO NOT GO TO BTT

i had some work done there and they over charged, were rude and did shit work

something as simple as getting a boost gauge installed

sold me a shit gauge, tried to charge me to fix it (even though they sourced it and installed it)

also coudlnt diagnose simple issues (tps needed resetting and timing adjusted)

i woudlnt trust them to work on my push bike

will never go there again

mercury did some good work on my bro in laws car and i know lots of others that have had good work done there

chapman and chapman used to service my car and always did good work also, but were exxy

One lame experience for a boost controller doesn't slam a workshop.

it was more than that

car was in a bad way after i had my custom plenum and intercooler done

went there to get it sorted

for 300 bux, the car drove out of there worse than it went in

i asked john about enginemanagement when i was there

he looked me in the eye and told me that powerfc would NOT be able to be used on my engine due to the custom throttle body and plennum, and that i would need to go microtec or a more expensive option

even funnier when i went back to get the POS boost gauge fixed (that i was going to be charged again for) that john tried to sell me a powerfc (he also blamed my plennum for the boost gauge issue, even though thats how the plennum was when THEY installed it)

went to motsons, and for half the price, the car was running how i wanted (simple things like resetting tps and the timing was WAY out 32 degrees advanced or something)

btt had done work for me before and was ok, and it was why i went back there despite many people telling me of their horror stories

i should have listened to them

I GOT HAD

im seriously considering going to small claims to try and get some of my money back considering what i paid for and what i got

SPOOKS_SKYLINE

if u have such a big issue with my workshop then instead of posting a reply on the forum bagging BRISBANE TUNING u should simply give us a call and sort your issue out with us.

prehaps john was confused when discussing ecu option for your car, as for your issues with our work, i could not say because i did not deal with u or your car.

Our knowledge on nissan imports is quite extensive, so u should not question our experience.

U SHOULD NOT GO AROUND PUBLICLY BAGGING A WORKSHOP WHEN CLEARLY U HAVE NOT SORTED YOUR ISSUE OUT WITH US CORRECTLY.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
    • I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life.  There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.
    • Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.
×
×
  • Create New...