Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive now got 2 jaycar amps... a big pioneer sub and alot of wires in my boot......

has anyone done a decent install? has pics of one or any ideas... im thinking i might just make a false floor for maybe 3/4 the boot and mount the amps on that as i cant see any other way.... unless they are mounted upright in the boot against the seat......

anyone got pics????

or ideas??

thanks

ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/
Share on other sites

I am currently installing and taking pics, so I will post when thats done...

I am mounting my 2 amps on a piece of MDF and trying to find a way to mount the wood somewhere so the amps look like they are kinds floating....having a bit of troubling with that tho

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1454666
Share on other sites

hey all....

i was going to go with the angled look and amps at the front etc etc.... figured out most boot space would be from a non symetrical install.......

made a false floor in the boot of my 32 and going to have another floating floor......

its coming along nicely.... pitty mum took the didicam away otherwise id have some pics....

thanks

ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1462271
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

would be keen to see some ppls installs too, i was hoping to have a 12" sub in a box against the back seat coming out to where the wheel wells stop, but after some measurements im having fun trying to work out how i am going to actually do it now...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1485576
Share on other sites

would be keen to see some ppls installs too, i was hoping to have a 12" sub in a box against the back seat coming out to where the wheel wells stop, but after some measurements im having fun trying to work out how i am going to actually do it now...

haha yeah not much room... bit of a pain in the ass... i should have my install hopefully finished 95% tomorrow... will take some pics so u have an idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1485847
Share on other sites

i had the same problem.......

mine is just about finished............

just need some vinyling/rice lights and she will be finished.... something different... boot space still useable and nothing under the parcel shelf......

with all the custom fabrication ive done i have a feeling you lot will want to copy the sizes/ patterns :rolleyes:

Teased u lot enough?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1495472
Share on other sites

Sizes/paternsorban  :(

yeah thats why i went with tubes instead of a conventional box due to the limited clearance in the boot of the R32's.

Got 2 in there (one on each side) and there is plenty of room still B)

Cheers B

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79848-boot-install-r32/#findComment-1498539
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...