Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why do automatic tranny cooler lines run through the radiator?

Thats the question.

Do only autos come with the radiator that ducts them in?

Can i bypass it and run just a front mount AT oil cooler or does it assist in the cooling or oil thining/thickening?

Cheers

oil_cooler.JPG

Why do automatic tranny cooler lines run through the radiator?

Thats the question.

Do only autos come with the radiator that ducts them in?

Can i bypass it and run just a front mount AT oil cooler or does it assist in the cooling or oil thining/thickening?

It's an oil cooler and generally all auto cars have one in the radiator. Yes you can run a separate trans oil cooler - it actually extends the life of the tranny esp if you plan on engine power boosts.

I know its an oil cooler the point of the question is why is it ducted into the radiator

and what ramifications will it have if not used but just running a big tranny oil cooler

Cheers

I know its an oil cooler the point of the question is why is it ducted into the radiator

and what ramifications will it have if not used but just running a big tranny oil cooler

Cheers

It's cheaper to do it that way in mass production, plus it allows the tranny fluid to reach operating temp quicker which aids driveability. I've also read somewhere of one manufacturer (toyota from memory) claiming that it reduced emissions by optimising operating temps, etc.

It is almost invariably better to disconnect the factory cooler and run a separate air/oil trans cooler. The factory type is small and you can usually fit a larger aftermarket type that gives better cooling all round and will extend trans life. For a standard car the factory cooler will do the job, but boosting engine power or continuous engine load (eg towing) makes fitting an aftermarket cooler mandatory AFAIC.

Downsides - finding the space + the trans will take longer to reach operating temp esp in cold climates (eg winter in melbourne)

I know for a fact there are atleast 2 different radiators for r32s. One is an auto one, with the trans cooler part, one is a manual one without it. Obviously I'm not 100% if *all* auto ones got the auto radiator or if *all* manual ones got the manual radiator but it would stand to reason.

I would probably keep the transfluid running in to the radiator then in to the external trans cooler then back to the gearbox.

Setup that way would no doubt help absorb peak hour traffic trans fluid temps when there is no air passing through the external trans cooler.

when i fitted a trannie cooler to my R32 auto, i found that it did indeed have the factory AT oil cooler on the bottom of the radiator...

i simply run the fluid through this cooler, then through my aftermarket cooler, then back to the trannie :rofl:

How would running the AT cooler lines through the radiator assist in keeping the fluid cool?

Granted it getsit to operatin temp quicker but is this one of those things that pulls both ways?

I will be replacing my radiator with a manual one so i wont be running through the radiator but will the setup be okay still?

You don't want your fluid too cold, it doesn't behave properly. They make these fluids to behave in a certain way in a certain temperature range. Outside the range and they don't work properly. I run mine through both the radiator and the cooler in the front drivers side air dam.

The liquid (transmission fluid) to liguid (water in radiator) cooler is the most efficient. Liquid (transmission fluid) to air transmission cooler is not as efficient, so it has to be larger. The Stagea (have a look at the transmission cooler thread in the Stagea section) has both standard, I simply replaced the small standard air to fluid cooler with a much larger and more efficient Davies Crag transmisson cooler. But I kept the fluid to fluid cooler as well, can't have too much transmission cooling when towing.

As long as you use a large enough air to fluid transmssion cooler, then you can live without the fluid to fluid cooler. Make sure you put it in the line of airflow from the radiator fan, that will helpo when in traffic, not moving much for long periods.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...