Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Noticed today that my power steering belt had seemingly quickly deteriorated ( a few weeks since I last would have noticed) and now was almost split in half, and almost falling off.

Replacement from Repco - $30.00

I wasted a lot of time on this, and thought how much a quick guide would of helped!

Jacking the car isn’t required as you only need a few inch’s of height. I parked my front wheels on some pavers.

You need to gain access to 3 bolts,

1] The main pivot bolt for the pump

2] The slide locator

3] The long bolt or “tensioner” rod.

- Remove air filters ( std box if u have that) and AFM’s. Remove plastic under tray.

- The only tricky bit is having to line up one of the two holes in the power steering pulley with the bolt that the whole pump pivots on, as turning the engine is difficult. I just cut the old belt off; loosen bolt.

- Gaining access to the long ( 4 or 5 inch) bolt underneath the pump that’s used for tensioning, is done from the side, right where the AFM for the front turbo went; loosen bolt about 1.5-2 inch’s.

- From underneath the car, the long bolt you just loosened?, you can see goes through a threaded slider, used to push the pump away from the engine, when setting belt tension level; loosen this so that the pump will pivot.

- I couldn’t figure out a way to safely lever the pump in towards the engine, so from underneath I used a short breaker bar gently against the lower AC pulley to move the PS pump inwards.

- Now simply fit new belt, (making sure to do so, with the hole in the pulley lined up, so that u can gain access to the pivot bolt) tension the long bolt,

Nissan say, with a Poly V – low main tenance belt, should have 8-10mm of deflection when loaded with 10kg.

Secure the bolt on the slider, tighten the main pivot bolt and replace intake and under tray :run:

Thanks

Hope this helps.

  • 5 months later...

I knew I was doing something wrong, stupid pivot bolt, me belts fine, I need to take this belt off to replace the AC belt so I can't cut the P/s belt to get to the pivot bolt unfortunatley... looks like I'll have to do trial and error cranking...

oh well thanks for the guide.. you probably saved me another couple of hours :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
    • Nah, not really responsible for that little fiasco, but I'm still pissed at myself for writing off my 86, or when I reversed my VX into a pole just before selling it, but, meh, 5hit happens to stuff, all it takes is a slight distraction, and life is full of distractions, and "dooh" moments   
×
×
  • Create New...