Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think your complaining for nothing. Is the first pic you posted your front pipe? Coz that thing looks quite good to me? (It may have needed to have the weld ground down) but thats it

As for you other issues. Im surprised it didnt cost more than 1750 considering stainless. Mine totalled up with similar crap to about 1000 in mild steel.

The weld spots are there because MOST exhaust joints do not have the cash to buy a mandrel bend machine (****ing expensive) so they use pre made bends which need to be stuck together.

As for the "rust" thats what happens to the welds because they dont recoat the metal after the weld.

I reckon your exhaust looks / sounds like a decent one man. I cant see the issues.

hrmm the only reason why I became concerned is because I had a stock dump pipe that I had just looked, then I had a look at the custom dump pipe and I noticed that there was 15mm raise in front of the exhaust wheel that joins with a sharp V type shape before tapering down the dump pipe.

I thought the whole idea of a non standard dump pipe was to try and open it up as much as you can.

Not over measure and then try to fix it up by welding another little piece of metal in to bring it back down to the flange.

Basically compared to the custom dump pipe the stock one looks like it is able to flow better.

Except on the custom it obviously has better flow for the Wastegate.

And I'm getting boost drop problems.

Even with the VG30BB turbo.

Maybe this is the problem. I am not sure.

When the EBC is in Auto mode It will learn not to drop boost some how. But Auto mode is crappy and boost response is not as crisp.

hey joel when u put the vg30 turbo on,did u use the rb20 actuator, if u did, did u make sure the wastegate was fully closed cause it sounds as if it leaking,or maybe the exaust shop played with it i dunno,maybe check that its in the fully closed position

if you hear a metalic rattling coming from the exhaust housing, chances are your wastegate is not completely shut.

Take the actuator off, bend the arm so that its shorter.

Do if until the hole completely misses the tit that sticks out of the actuator arm. You'll have to pull the arm out from the actuator to get it back on.

What had happened to the VG30 BB turbo I had was that the bearings inside had developed a little bit of rust as they were sitting around for a while.

When the bearing spins and hits the rust spot it would make the a noise. hence the wzzz noise.

I spoke to some one also in the know about exhausts and any rise in front of the exhaust wheel will cause problems.

Especially when the wastegate starts to open.

Just have to wait until JMS open now on monday to send the turbo back.

Then give the exhaust place a ring as they responded to my email and have no problems with it.. So all is smooth sailing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy. 
    • Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the  hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?
    • The incoming weather event seems to be affecting people in weird ways....🤣 And no, whilst there is some fancy engineering going on, I have no real interest in anything rotary really I had a Capella in the 90's, the rotary engine is way to temperamental, and extremely thirsty for my liking  If I won lotto and wanted to waste a ton of cash, a boosted K-swap would be what I would look at, until then, the N/A MZR2.5 will be at home in the engine bay of the NC A build like this, just without the idiotic street pulls and skids would be interesting to waste a huge amount of money on https://youtu.be/EgqAoVtUD1E?si=n3_umivrUPP8C9Cs
    • Now we're getting somewhere. All we need is a fractional rotor system so we can also have the RX3 and 5 back, and the world will be right again.
    • With that engine being a one rotor, would that make this into an RX4?
×
×
  • Create New...