Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP!! BNR32 Timing belt allignment question

Robbo

By Robbo,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Robbo Enthusiast

Robbo

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Just changed the timing belt on my 32, and the process for setting the belt tensioner specifies turning the engine over twice before setting the position of the tensioner.

I did this and then cranked the engine over (on the starter motor, no spark), to see if it was all good. and the belt worked its way forward.

[Edit: by about a millimeter or so.. til the belt was slightly off the pulley.]

Is this a problem? I figure that the belt won't come off thanks to the pulley guide plates (large tapered washers) but it will wear the front of the belt..

What would cause this and what can I do to remedy it? The only thing I can pick is that the idler and tensioner pulleys sit at different heights. It's hard to explain but the distance between the block and the pulleys is different between the two. (i.e. the idler is closer to the block than the tensioner).

Help me please!!! I want to get this car back together. and I dont know what to do.. :confused:

Cheers.

Robbo.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted
Hey,

Just changed the timing belt on my 32, and the process for setting the belt tensioner specifies turning the engine over twice before setting the position of the tensioner.  

I did this and then cranked the engine over (on the starter motor, no spark), to see if it was all good. and the belt worked its way forward.  

[Edit: by about a millimeter or so.. til the belt was slightly off the pulley.]

Is this a problem?  I figure that the belt won't come off thanks to the pulley guide plates (large tapered washers) but it will wear the front of the belt..

What would cause this and what can I do to remedy it?  The only thing I can pick is that the idler and tensioner pulleys sit at different heights.  It's hard to explain but the distance between the block and the pulleys is different between the two. (i.e. the idler is closer to the block than the tensioner).

Help me please!!! I want to get this car back together. and I dont know what to do.. :confused:  

Cheers.

Robbo.

Hmm mine is in pieces too buddy i havent yet replaced it with a new belt so im not sure if i'll have the same issue..Best to ask one of the guys like wrxhoon or GTRgeoff. They have helped me out alot and know there stuff..Perhaps PM one of them?

  • 2 weeks later...
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

The whole belt seems to be working its way forawrd, not just on the crank pulley. The whole way around it seems to be moving forward... Im not keen on putting it back together with it doing this. Any help would be great :D

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Deren, this is why it needs the guide at the bottom. Consider that there has to be some minor flex at the free ends of the shafts for all the gears/pulleys when the belt is under tension. It will naturally produce runoff on the free end direction. Put the guide and balancer on and all will be good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Duncan
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • GTSBoy
      High temp brake fluid?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • soviet_merlin
      High temp brake fluid?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • PranK
      High temp brake fluid?

      By PranK · Posted

      The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...