Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes i agree with the build quality. My dash is falling apart..... But I had $5000 to spend on a car 3 years ago, it was fast, it was in good condition, so i thought it was a good deal. Given the oppurtunity again I probably wouldn't have bought it again, maybe saving a little more for a R32 GTSt or something. Which is what im saving for atm.

These days the build quality of cars such as Land Rovers (I worked at a Land Rover servicing place for a while) is decreasing, almost to coincide with warranty running out. (A new mirror and servo's costs about $1600 for a Discovery 3). Thats how they're making their money unfortunately.

But yes i agree on the Skylines being better built cars. Although it wasn't particularly fast, the NA R33 i was in was solidly built, and looked great! Hence the reason I want one.

Yeah fair enough.

I've only ever owned Nissans (on to my 4th at the age of 19) and I've only had my R32 for a week now but I am truly impressed with the build quality.

If I had a family then a commmodore would be alright and for the price they are decent. Plenty of spare parts etc. Skylines cost alot more to maintain as I have already found out... Damn gerboxes.. .lol

Greg

  • Replies 173
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This thread is really a greed over car choice, you want to get a fast car do drag your mate. Does it really matter if you can beat your mate in a car? Maybe injuring yourself and him?

If you buy a car, especially at a young age (your first car) make sure that its not for stupidity and only for daily purpose. (I'd say get a supra, i think the power shows more towards the top speed rather then take off, so while still being a fast car not a quick takeoff that will kill you. RZ n/a for the win!) Goodluck :P

i agree with you on the thought. In fact, I think if you're 17, well learn how to drive first. The car don't matter so much-it's the skill.

Heh, you come on a Skylines forum asking a serious question about a VT (the slowest of all the V6 Commodores) vs an Auto NA Skyline?

The Skyline would get chopped, simple. I've been in a manual one with really bad mags and a ridiculous sized cannon (which were the only two standout features of it, the acceleration certainatly wasnt) and i know that it would get hammered by anything this side of a VN. In fact except probably for the Starfire 4 Commodore (what were Holden thinking?) no commodore should lose to a NA Auto Skyline.

And also to you people out there commenting on cost vs performance...... A Commodore is a family car. The V8 is there for people who dont want a bog stock V6. They are not, nor will they ever be, designed to be a sports car, hence why your GTST's will beat them, with the exception of most of the HSV's. They were built to be fast, sporty cars with great handling.....

errr.. Big car which is sporty and great handling? I think the light shines on the GTRs. If not, it would be some other Japanese made car which are efficient on every aspect.

errr.. Big car which is sporty and great handling? I think the light shines on the GTRs. If not, it would be some other Japanese made car which are efficient on every aspect.

I meant the skylines were built to be sporty etc. Not the Commodores

na i think the gts would win.... IF it was manual.... an btw VT commodore manuals r pretty rare, i own a gts r33 manual and personally i think its pretty powerful, an wats this s*it bout a magna 3.5 beating a gts?!? :) a nissan pulsar could probli beat a magna :lol:

na i think the gts would win.... IF it was manual.... an btw VT commodore manuals r pretty rare, i own a gts r33 manual and personally i think its pretty powerful, an wats this s*it bout a magna 3.5 beating a gts?!? :D a nissan pulsar could probli beat a magna  :lol:

Go and find yourself a decent driver in a manual 3.5 litre magna dude. Ya gonna get chopped. :)

EDIT: Speaking of Magnas, anyone see the new 380? Bottom spec model ran a 15.4 in Wheels if I remember rightly (don't have the mag here to confirm). Not bad at all, and certainly enough to worry the folden falcodores around the place.

Edited by Big Rizza
Theres nothing really wrong with push rods. If the system works, no need to change it. NASCAR engines push upwards of 750hp with no forced induction and those engines use pushrods and carburetors.

the position of the cam has little to do with how much technology has gone into the engine, but i think most people might have trouble comming to terms with that :lol:

Why would you even bother buying an automatic non turbo R33...... As if you want to be a poser!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.. You might aswell buy a cheaper faster bucket of shit (datson 1600 that still move pretty well and you can afford the insurance). Mate of mine had one (1600) running 32 pounds boost (didnt last very long b4 all the parts were stolen which is a good thing because his motor wouldnt have lasted very long anyway but boy did that thing move). Cost under 10G all up aswell!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...