Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can i just get this straight....

if you get an engineers certificate for the mods on your car, even if you have a pod, FMIC, gauges etc, if you get them engineered, a cop can pull you over thinking he can defect you, but you show the certificate and you're sweet?

can this work for a car that is illegally low? if its engineered is it ok?

if so, $3-$600 is not a lot to spend when you're buying the knowledge that a cop cannot defect you!

madwob: not exactly. Up to the police officer's discretion but they can still defect you if you have an engineering certificate. Just makes it easier to clear if they do.

However, if you have something like a car that is too low, blow the legal limits, an engineering certificate won't help you.

madwob: not exactly. Up to the police officer's discretion but they can still defect you if you have an engineering certificate. Just makes it easier to clear if they do.

However, if you have something like a car that is too low, blow the legal limits, an engineering certificate won't help you.

yeah thats what i meant, they'd still canary you if they wanted, but you can just get it cleared the next day at vic roads or whatever...

as for the being to low, i thought they can give u a cert. for stuff like having rims bigger than what the law says u can have over factory, if they dont see them as dangerous or anything

Is the engineer rta certified?

Can you pass on the details of who you got it done through.

And did you have any other mods on the car to be certified.Like suspension,bov etc.

The engineer was RTA certified and my certificate is certified, on file with the RTA and a condition of my rego.

Last I heard he's retired so unfortunately not.

  • 3 months later...

To whomever it was that PM'd me ( sorry, I deleted your PM and I have the memory of a goldfish :( ) here's the new tyre placard I was talking about ( and the original one ). Some people who have had their car engineered did not get one of these so I'm not sure if you should have got one or not.

To everyone else, sorry for digging up an old post ;)

post-2420-1134334257.jpg

post-2420-1134334287.jpg

You'll need to source an Automotive Engineer ( check links from RTA website ). If you can't find any, let me know and I'll see if I can dig up some QLD names for you.

The wheels must be in good condition ( overall ) and MUST have all the relative info either stamped, forged into or printed on a sticker and stuck onto the rim detailing size, "JJ" standard ( safety rim ) and some other stuff. Many cheap wheels that people buy do not have this info and can not be engineered.

They will also check the fitment to your car making sure that the center of the wheels is supporting the load and not just the wheels nuts/studs. They will also make sure that the offset is not excessive, and will not cause premature bearing failure.

You'll need to source an Automotive Engineer ( check links from RTA website ). If you can't find any, let me know and I'll see if I can dig up some QLD names for you.

The wheels must be in good condition ( overall ) and MUST have all the relative info either stamped, forged into or printed on a sticker and stuck onto the rim detailing size, "JJ" standard ( safety rim ) and some other stuff. Many cheap wheels that people buy do not have this info and can not be engineered.

They will also check the fitment to your car making sure that the center of the wheels is supporting the load and not just the wheels nuts/studs. They will also make sure that the offset is not excessive, and will not cause premature bearing failure.

thanx for the info mate. so simplely if i buy those second hand wheels from japan(say those Nismo LM GT4?), is it possible to engineer them as i cant get a sticker or anyting for them. cheers :)

What state are you guys in? down here (vic) you certainly don't need an engineer cert for aftermarket parts..so long as your new parts don't make the vehicle unroadworthy or alter emissions and are within the accepted modifications guidelines np's.

ie: car still has 100mm clearance, or db levels/emissions aren't outside the legal limits it's still a roadworthy vehicle, tyres aren't wider than the guards, offset and track are still to spec ..ect ..ect.

All parts sold from retail outlets for street use should have conformed to all the necessary adr, manufacturing and government regulations or they wouldn't be allowed to retail them in the first place.

If my insurance company took this stance with me they'd be on the losing end of a claim and lawsuit.

It sounds to me like some officious little insurance man has made his own interpretation of a clause or sub clause.

If your car is of a roadworthy condition and you've got all your legal mods listed on your policy they'd be laughed out of court I'd imagine.

As if mildly modded cars that have bolt on (within roadworthy spec) modifications need to be "engineered"

have a read of the relevant adr's, roadworthy and modifications requirements for your state and save yourselves some $$$

Edited by madbung
What state are you guys in? down here (vic) you certainly don't need an engineer cert for aftermarket parts..so long as your new parts don't  make the vehicle unroadworthy or alter emissions and are within the accepted modifications guidelines np's.

ie: car still has 100mm clearance, or db levels/emissions aren't outside the legal limits it's still a roadworthy vehicle, tyres aren't wider than the guards, offset and track are still to spec ..ect ..ect.

All parts sold from retail outlets for street use should have conformed to all the necessary adr, manufacturing and government regulations or they wouldn't be allowed to retail them in the first place.

If my insurance company took this stance with me they'd be on the losing end of a claim and lawsuit.

It sounds to me like some officious little insurance man has made his own interpretation of a clause or sub clause.

If your car is of a roadworthy condition and you've got all your legal mods listed on your policy they'd be laughed out of court I'd imagine.

As if mildly modded cars that have bolt on (within roadworthy spec) modifications need to be "engineered"

have a read of the relevant adr's, roadworthy and modifications requirements for your state and save yourselves some $$$

thats exactly what i thought. i live in QLD but i never had any problems with my previous car which had some bold on mods.

the only thing worries me is the f**ken insurance. my insurance company wont let me have more than three pods atm and im working on changing to Justcars as soon as i can afford to pay the one off premium.

I'm in NSW and there are a certain amount of modifications you can make to your car without any requirement for engineering but once you step outside those restictions an engineer must approve those mods. An example is with wheels. In NSW you are allowed a certain amount of offset and width / diameter change ( can't remember the exact figures ) but once you've exceeded those limits, engineering approval is required.

A few of the modifications I have are race specific ( example being 9L High Energy Circut Racing Engine Sump ) and as such are not readily approved for road use. These mods must be engineer certified to be legal for road use.

frankxy, you should probably check your local QLD laws to clarify what requirement's are applicable to you. I'm only telling you info relative to my situation. Sorry for any misunderstanding :)

I'm in NSW and there are a certain amount of modifications you can make to your car without any requirement for engineering but once you step outside those restictions an engineer must approve those mods. An example is with wheels. In NSW you are allowed a certain amount of offset and width / diameter change ( can't remember the exact figures ) but once you've exceeded those limits, engineering approval is required.

A few of the modifications I have are race specific ( example being 9L High Energy Circut Racing Engine Sump ) and as such are not readily approved for road use. These mods must be engineer certified to be legal for road use.

frankxy, you should probably check your local QLD laws to clarify what requirement's are applicable to you. I'm only telling you info relative to my situation. Sorry for any misunderstanding :(

no,no, mate, i know u r right. im just not very good with the law and stuff and i dont wanna troubles all the time, neither from the cops nor the insurance when i have an accident or something. thanx for the info. im just gonna ring them up and ask where i can locate the rules about mods on the cars(im pretty sure its on the website as well since someone posted a link b4). :D

thanx for the info.

You will need to speak to a compliance engineer regarding your specific modifications and what is and isn't allowed to get the blue plate. These are not your regular 'mod' type engineers, and I think there are only a couple in QLD.

Mine was pretty much stock, so was fairly simple, but as above, nobody is going to be able to give you a definitive answer as to what is, and what isn't allowed other than the guy above. As he is the one who ultimately gives you the plate ;) Then you just get a RWC and it can be registered like any other vehicle... again at this step the Roadworthy guy will have to agree on the mods and whether he thinks they are roadworthy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...