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Hi, just interested in what sort of speeds you were getting up to, does your car have the M-type(4 piston ft. brakes/ 2 piston Rrs.)?

I thought the RB74 pads were supposed to be pretty good. I have Bendix ultimates and they work really well, been to QLD raceway a couple of times and no fade from pads, got a spongy feeling (brakes still worked ok tho)which I think was either due to rubber brakelines expanding &/or firewall flexing. I was driving the car as hard as I could - 72 sec on short course, about 11 secs slower than a GT3...lol

I even used std nissan pads on the old lakeside raceway track and had no fade at all, coming from 190km/hr down to about 80 km/hr with maximum braking and abs doings its thing , and still had no fade, doing 68-70 sec laps.

if you dont have the m-type brakes then maybe a caliper upgrade would be helpful in being able to apply more pressure to the rotors when you are braking.

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how do u mean fail? as in they started fading? or they lost power completely.

also check that your rotors have good thickness, and no problems with master cylinder.

also, i can't remember if it's dot 5.2 or dot 5 fluid that you aren't ment to use without full flush. but might wanna look into that.

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What is the difference between EBC Yellow stuff & EBC Green Stuff? I have EBC green stuff and they are too hard IMO. They make a terible sound like they are grinding away my disks...

EBC Yellow Stuff - and they rock. Work well from cold and no fade at all when scorching. Produced over here in UK.

Just about to fit DBA 6x6 wiper slot discs in place of the knackered discs I'm running at the mo. Should be even better then.

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Unusual choice - most people don't bother with RB74's on the rears. Certainly race brakes don't recommend it. You don't need them there & they will only squeal & generally give you the sh!ts. Something cheaper with similar friction coefficients is usually adequate.

I have had only good experiences with the RB74 pads - but I may be able to help a bit further if you clarify what you mean by fail. They don't fade as such - it is just that the wear rate goes up markedly when they get really hot.

If you want a list of pad types, their friction coefficients & temperature ranges have a look at the current issue of RACE magazine. It has a silver Datto 260Z on the cover.

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who make these RB74 pads? I have heard only good things about them..

Unusual choice - most people don't bother with RB74's on the rears. Certainly race brakes don't recommend it. You don't need them there & they will only squeal & generally give you the sh!ts. Something cheaper with similar friction coefficients is usually adequate.

I have had only good experiences with the RB74 pads - but I may be able to help a bit further if you clarify what you mean by fail. They don't fade as such - it is just that the wear rate goes up markedly when they get really hot.

If you want a list of pad types, their friction coefficients & temperature ranges have a look at the current issue of RACE magazine. It has a silver Datto 260Z on the cover.

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Thanks for the advice guys.

I have just come back from Race Brakes and they have assesed the pads and beleive that they have failed due to overheating. A full flush was done when the pads were installed so they ruled out the brake fluid. Whit haze on outer edges of pads this meaning pads have exceded there temperature limit, they should no.

They have recommended Ferodo 3000

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Thanks for the advice guys.

I have just come back from Race Brakes and they have assesed the pads and beleive that they have failed due to overheating. A full flush was done when the pads were installed so they ruled out the brake fluid. Whit haze on outer edges of pads this meaning pads have exceded there temperature limit, they should no.

They have recommended Ferodo 3000

A number of people have "graduated" from RB74's to the Ferodo pads. Will be interested in how you get on with them.

Can you post up a shot of the shot pads? I think a number of people will be interested in seeing them.

Also, how did the discs stand up?

White haze is interesting. I occasionally suffer from a red haze when really angry and a purple one when Hendrix or Groove Armada is on the stereo.

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Had my first track day last weekend all went well except for the brakes. After 6 laps brakes decided to fail.  Iam using dot 5 fluid and have RB74 all round. What pads are you guys using as i think i might need some pads that will be able to take more punishment.

What track were you driving around, what tyres were you using and what car mods have you got. There arent any Sydney tracks that shoudl bother a Skyliens std brakes with RB74s unless you have some serious power.

All for using DS3000s but they are fairly expensive and if you are using them day to day they will squeal their asses off:( ...and of course the more hardcore the brake compund you begin to run the more aggressive on the rotor they typically are:(

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I found that with the EBC greenstuff that they were not as good as I would have liked when cold.. eg 10min @ 100kph then try and stop in a hurry. I would guess that the yellowstuff would be worse in this regard... something to keep in mind for street use. I switched to Pagid Rs4-2 and found them to be much better.

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I have gone with RB74s, they should arive today. I will fit them on the weekend and see how they go. They must be better then the EBC Green Stuff breakes I have been using.

To anyone using new pads on the track. PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU BED THEM IN ON THE ROAD BEFORE YOU GET NEAR THE TRACK. Get some temperature in them on the street & then allow them to cool off gently. Don't wait for the morning warmup.

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LOL... i did them at the track, if your willing to waste a session then there is no better place to get plenty of pad on those rotors:)

Prob is these days there arent any real practice days at Vic tracks, they all seem to be sprints so dont want to waste a tiemd session (4 laps) when you may only get 12 laps all day:(

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Im pretty sure the colours of the EBC pad range represent the different compound of materials they use therefore withstanding different loads and temps for different applications ie. road,road/track and track.

There are a number of different parameters you need to be aware of when choosing brake pads:

Friction coefficient - simply the higher the number the better the retardation. 0.45 is a good number, anything higher a bonus. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear.

Working temp range - If you are using them both on the road & on the track they need to work from 0 degrees up. You don't want to run the next doors kids over do you? Do you? Equally if the upper limit is in the 650 degrees range be aware that much over this will really start to hurt your rotors. Make sure you have a good balance front to rear, remember the fronts will get hotter.

Hardness - The more agressive the pad the more wear on your rotors. Very difficult to get a straight answer from the shops on this. Usually best to rely on word of mouth.

Noise - some pads will squeal like a stuck pig. Varies from car to car & from pad to pad. Occasionally a good pasting makes it go away for a time. Sometimes not.

Cost - Obvious really.

With regards to EBC pads (& forum rules about -ve comments) check their friction coefficients & prices.

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