Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get on yellow pages online and search "car freighters". Ring around a few and get a guage on pricing as it can vary up to $2-300.

I dont think there would be a particular company that is going to take a lot more care than others because at the end of the day it all comes down to the driver who loads the car on the truck. If you are worried, get the person who is selling to remove the front bar and put it inside the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80375-car-moving/#findComment-1462174
Share on other sites

i am not sure what kind of car u r buying but im presuming it is a skyline and presuming that it is not a very expensive one (i.e <20000) in light of that and considering the availability of skylines in brisbane, i would like to suggest that you consider simply purchasing one in brisbane. Not only are u able to inspect the car in person (unless u fly to melb which again requires u to fork out money) u also save on rego and inspection and transportation charges. Unless u can say the car in question is a truely unique one in one aspect or another....perhaps u should simply considering buying one in ur home state as it really saves alot of trouble and potential headache

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80375-car-moving/#findComment-1462259
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...