Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just wondering how you can determine the difference between a S1 and S2 R33 GTST ignitor coils?

I've read the S2 are slightly different. If anyone has any pics of a S1 and S2 ignitor coil could you please post them or put a link to them.

Reason why i ask is because I'm pretty sure i need new ignitor coils but I am unsure if my motor is a S1 or S2 even though the car is a S2 (just the thought of an engine replacement).

Thank you.

Regards

Steve

I know the coils on the s2 "piggyback" a metal mounting system, as such to prevent shorting out from cracking the coils from over tightening. pretty sure with the series one's each coil is one assembly made entirely of plastic, hence the possibility of cracking. I think cracking is more or less impossible on the s2's, given their design. and yeah, no ignitor box, just a connector (at the rear of the valley cover).

That's from my small amount of experience. hope that helps with your diagnosis.

Hi,

I've taken out my coils but I left my camera elsewhere but my coils look exactly like the ones in the pics on page 2 or 3 of the "missfire @ 4500rpm" thread". Is that enought to distinguish a S1 or S2 motor?

Also from looking in the engine bay, cannot see a little black box on top of the valley cover but it could just be me not knowing what i'm looking for. Any more help would be great.

Thanks

Regards

Steve

I don't think there is any apparent physical difference between the 2 types.

At the rear of the valley cover, there may be 4 bolt holes. This is where the ignitor should ordinarily sit if you are running S1 coils and an ignitor. If you just have 4 bolt holes, then you are more than likely running S2 coils.

I have mine out ATM (engine being re-built), so I'll try and remember to get a part number or something off them tonight (they are the in-built ignitor type, but from a Stagea).

I know the coils on the s2 "piggyback"  a metal mounting system, as such to prevent shorting out from cracking the coils from over tightening. pretty sure with the series one's each coil is one assembly made entirely of plastic, hence the possibility of cracking. I think cracking is more or less impossible on the s2's, given their design.

S1 and S2 coils are all like that, even RB20 coils.

The cracking is nothing to do with overtightening, they crack b/c the plastic becomes fatigued and brittle from age and the temperatures under the cover.

The reason why there are less S@ R33's and R34's with cracked coils is b/c they are newer. This problem is not isolated to Skylines, it can happen to any coil on any car.

S1 and S2 coils are all like that, even RB20 coils.

The cracking is nothing to do with overtightening, they crack b/c the plastic becomes fatigued and brittle from age and the temperatures under the cover.

The reason why there are less S@ R33's and R34's with cracked coils is b/c they are newer. This problem is not isolated to Skylines, it can happen to any coil on any car.

Ic... well yeah as i said i dont have much experience, that's just what i deduced from pics i'd seen of coils on other models, and that people said they could crack if you overtightened them :confused: sorry if I gave anyone a bum steer.

I just ran the exact same search I did this morning, and now it came back with results.... go figure. but yeah I always find it's easier for the people helping you if you post a linkie :D

RB25DET coils don't appear to have a Nissan Part#. Only marking I can find (remember, these are off a Stagea RB25DET) is:

HANSHIN

MCP-1330

RB20DET coils appear to be Nissan P/N 22433-60U02

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Rear doors central locking wiring removed and cleaned. See the first 8sec video of when it’s filled with river silt. its a snip of what I’m up against. front and rear doors complete now. Maybe another day removing carpet and bits and pieces. Then the re assembly begins. 🤙 att.DqweJqhY5MZiZYQDVMhn3LtvdD1RBZ7TBG4f2s7W1zM.mp4 att.lFuN22MZEowqCbFAXoDw009r2gHL76ChMVfxMfBX-uk.mp4
    • There aren't boost creep issues, it's not engineered around the restriction of the cats but if you haven't tuned the engine a full decat + exhaust can flow enough air to run off the end of the OEM load scales and you will get a pretty substantial reduction in ignition timing as a result. I recommend using DFCO, avoiding ignition cut limiters, and avoiding popcorn tunes along with running a cat unless you enjoy a perpetually soot-covered and potentially burnt bumper.
    • Small update, it's been slow moving over the Christmas period with money having to go everywhere thats not my car 😅. I got myself a little present to myself from "santa" in the form of some tidy radiator mounts from fitmint automotive to get rid of the stock ones that look like they have been in an accident before and then straightened by a caveman. I know I should've replaced the rubber bush at the same time but I had no idea how bad they were until I was replacing the mounts. Decided to order their dash mat while I was at it as I feel like I am lucky enough to have a pretty decent condition dash and I don't want to risk it being ruined while it's parked in the aussie sun while I'm at work. I have found another electrical fault to add to the evergrowing list to eventually chase down. Every time I replace my taillight globe it blows within a day of use, I'm starting to think my life would be easier if I took a few minutes to learn how to use  a multimeter 😂.   Had some luck with finding a series 2 drivers headlight on marketplace to replace my mismatched series 1 headlight, a subtle difference but it's nice to have a matching set of lights now.   I returned to the air con problem due to being sick of this summer heat, found a good condition condenser to replace my leaking one! I got it in the car and was happy when I got the thumbs up that the system was now holding gas. Sadly the compressor is not kicking in for some reason, we even tried branching the relay in the fuse box. I have tried to do some research on the issue with no clear understanding of what the fix is, so for now it will be placed on the backburner until I can be bothered to look into the wiring to the compressor. The last small mods I have done was cutting the horizontal vents out of the front bar, not really in a functional airflow sense but I just think it looks better as I am not a fan of the series 2 bar. I also switched the shift knob out for a hosoboyo aluminium grex style one, it has a really nice more direct driving feel than the outdated rubbery oem one. Thirdly, I chucked on one of the ebay bonnet strut kits. The fitment is decent and they seem to work fairly well. They have only given out once while the car was parked facing downhill, I think if I was working under the bonnet I would still put the oem hood stay up to be precautionary as to avoid getting a speedy concussion.
    • Got pneumonia, haven’t played with her in a while, but I’m back now. Previous owners cut bonnet pins into the bonnet. My choice try find a replacement or spend $15 get some pins myself to cover up. Now only one small hole to cover. looks shit now, but when the bonnet is red again. Be good 🤞
    • No R32 GTSt had 15" wheels. 205/55-16 was standard GTSt fare. 4.36:1 is standard R32 turbo auto diff. I think the manual was too, not 4.11. 4.11 and 4.08 were R33 namual and auto respectively.
×
×
  • Create New...