Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignitor Coils... Difference between S1 and S3 R33 GTST

Scooby_Steve

By Scooby_Steve,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Just wondering how you can determine the difference between a S1 and S2 R33 GTST ignitor coils?

I've read the S2 are slightly different. If anyone has any pics of a S1 and S2 ignitor coil could you please post them or put a link to them.

Reason why i ask is because I'm pretty sure i need new ignitor coils but I am unsure if my motor is a S1 or S2 even though the car is a S2 (just the thought of an engine replacement).

Thank you.

Regards

Steve

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
Posted

I know the coils on the s2 "piggyback" a metal mounting system, as such to prevent shorting out from cracking the coils from over tightening. pretty sure with the series one's each coil is one assembly made entirely of plastic, hence the possibility of cracking. I think cracking is more or less impossible on the s2's, given their design. and yeah, no ignitor box, just a connector (at the rear of the valley cover).

That's from my small amount of experience. hope that helps with your diagnosis.

Scooby_Steve Community Regular

Scooby_Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi,

I've taken out my coils but I left my camera elsewhere but my coils look exactly like the ones in the pics on page 2 or 3 of the "missfire @ 4500rpm" thread". Is that enought to distinguish a S1 or S2 motor?

Also from looking in the engine bay, cannot see a little black box on top of the valley cover but it could just be me not knowing what i'm looking for. Any more help would be great.

Thanks

Regards

Steve

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

I don't think there is any apparent physical difference between the 2 types.

At the rear of the valley cover, there may be 4 bolt holes. This is where the ignitor should ordinarily sit if you are running S1 coils and an ignitor. If you just have 4 bolt holes, then you are more than likely running S2 coils.

I have mine out ATM (engine being re-built), so I'll try and remember to get a part number or something off them tonight (they are the in-built ignitor type, but from a Stagea).

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted
I know the coils on the s2 "piggyback"  a metal mounting system, as such to prevent shorting out from cracking the coils from over tightening. pretty sure with the series one's each coil is one assembly made entirely of plastic, hence the possibility of cracking. I think cracking is more or less impossible on the s2's, given their design.

S1 and S2 coils are all like that, even RB20 coils.

The cracking is nothing to do with overtightening, they crack b/c the plastic becomes fatigued and brittle from age and the temperatures under the cover.

The reason why there are less S@ R33's and R34's with cracked coils is b/c they are newer. This problem is not isolated to Skylines, it can happen to any coil on any car.

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
Posted
S1 and S2 coils are all like that, even RB20 coils.

The cracking is nothing to do with overtightening, they crack b/c the plastic becomes fatigued and brittle from age and the temperatures under the cover.

The reason why there are less S@ R33's and R34's with cracked coils is b/c they are newer. This problem is not isolated to Skylines, it can happen to any coil on any car.

Ic... well yeah as i said i dont have much experience, that's just what i deduced from pics i'd seen of coils on other models, and that people said they could crack if you overtightened them :confused: sorry if I gave anyone a bum steer.

I just ran the exact same search I did this morning, and now it came back with results.... go figure. but yeah I always find it's easier for the people helping you if you post a linkie :D

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

RB25DET coils don't appear to have a Nissan Part#. Only marking I can find (remember, these are off a Stagea RB25DET) is:

HANSHIN

MCP-1330

RB20DET coils appear to be Nissan P/N 22433-60U02

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • GTSBoy
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • Duncan
      Factory oil temp sensor in a RS4V without gauges?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • Duncan
      C34 RSFour V Build in the US

      By Duncan · Posted

      It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)
×
×
  • Create New...