Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry guys, i've got a really stupid question to ask. but please answer it without the laughter etc

when you're disconnecting the battery on the car, do u always disconnect the -ve first then the +ve ? when disconnecting the battery with the spanner(unbolting the polarities + and -), is there a possible chance of getting electricuted ?(say your spanner accidentally crosses both poles)

also, when u reconnect the battery, do u connect the +ve first then the -ve ?(other way around).

sorry about this guys, i''ve disconnected the battery before, but i just wanna make sure im doing it rite. i dont like the idea of being electricuted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80679-disconnecting-the-battery-question/
Share on other sites

sorry guys, i've got a really stupid question to ask. but please answer it without the laughter etc

when you're disconnecting the battery on the car, do u always disconnect the -ve first then the +ve ? when disconnecting the battery with the spanner(unbolting the polarities + and -), is there a possible chance of getting electricuted ?(say your spanner accidentally crosses both poles)

also, when u reconnect the battery, do u connect the +ve first then the -ve ?(other way around).

sorry about this guys, i''ve disconnected the battery before, but i just wanna make sure im doing it rite. i dont like the idea of being electricuted.

hiya

just changed the battery today in my other car lol

disconnect the '-ve' first and then the '+ve'

take battery out

put the '+ve' back on then the '-ve'

its a bit scary at first as it scares me stupid too

make sure the spanner doesnt touch both sides or u'll see alot of sparks and probably get electrocuted.. if you used a long socket like i did, theres a good chance of touching so just be careful =)

disconnect the -ve first, then the positive. when reconnecting put the +ve on first, then the -ve.

If the -ve is disconnected, and you touch the negative on the battery and positive together with a spanner, u'll prolly get electricuted, wont harm the car though. Never fear u wont die..lol.

Just dont connect -ve and +ve on the battery with a spanner when the leads are still connected to the battery.

thnx both of u :(.

ohh, 2 more question. should i use a rubber handle spanner ? or will the metal handle be ok aswell ?

"Just dont connect -ve and +ve on the battery with a spanner when the leads are still connected to the battery."

are u talkin about the jumper cables to start up a car ? lol sowwie, im abit out of it at this late hour.

actually if you do put the spanner on both terminals you will die

the amps from the battery are much stronger than the amps in your house

if you dont die, you will be on death row thats for sure. the number of cold cranking amps will fry you

actually if you do put the spanner on both terminals you will die

the amps from the battery are much stronger than the amps in your house

if you dont die, you will be on death row thats for sure. the number of cold cranking amps will fry you

I think the worst that can happen in this situation is maybe a burn from a very hot spanner. The current will take a path of least resistance ie. straight through the spanner. Very little will pass through your body. It is the equiviliant of taking off the +ve terminal while leaning against your can providing an earth, you should know that doing this will not give you a shock.

Now sticking your tounge across the starter motor terminals may cause a little grief.

actually if you do put the spanner on both terminals you will die

the amps from the battery are much stronger than the amps in your house

if you dont die, you will be on death row thats for sure. the number of cold cranking amps will fry you

What a lot of bulldust ,

The current in your battery is totaly different to the 240 volt A/C in the house mains . Whatever you do dont play with the house power , that can kill you .

The car battery is D/C ( direct current ) and it will not kill you at 12 volts , altough it has heaps of amps .

If you happen to touch the + and - with your body nothing will happen you wont even know it ( unless your hands are wet ).

If you put the spanner or a wire across the terminals then you will have sparks , it can burn you ( the wire will melt , spanner will get very hot , red hot ) .

The reason you disconnect the - ve first is if you touch the cars body with the spanner you dont get fireworks . when the - is disconnected the dody doesn't have - so if you touch the spanner on to it when you undoing the + nothing will happen .

Take care with it and you will be o.k.

bugger i had heaps of friends tell me the cca's from the battery will blow you away, much more than the amps from a 240volts outlet. sorry for the wrong info

Whatever you do dont touch the 240 volt A/C at home .

If you want just put your hand on the 2 poles of your car battery you will see nothing will happen .

The coil current will give you a good belt but it wont kill you , so dont hold the coil pack wire while the engine is running , thats not 12 volt .

HA HA Die from a car battery, heard it all..... :)

I accidently earthed the spanner before when I was tightening the +ve terminal up, lotsa sparks, no shock .

If you're dumb enough not to let a shower of sparks stop u from doing the wrong thoing you probably need a burn to wake you up :)

I shit myself, dropped my spanner into the bottomless engine bay and hit my head!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...