Jump to content
SAU Community

Same Boost more flow


Recommended Posts

Guest Hotplates

I was wondering if someone could help me here. I'm trying to achieve more power without increasing boost. I believe my RB30DET flows better than the T3 it has on it, so I think Increasing the Compressor size is the way to go, not increasing boost.

I'm currently producing about 165rwkW, with boost set at 0.8 bar (from 2600-4200rpm) after that it drops of to about 0.5 bar by 5500rpm. Max power is around 5100rpm.

What do you think, I think the RB25 head should flow much better than that with an RB30 bottom end, and should be able to generate more power in the upper revrange without more boost.:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8068-same-boost-more-flow/
Share on other sites

You are definitely on the right track Hotplates.

Power is proportional to airflow. The only reason boost makes more power is it forces more airflow through all the restrictions.

If you can increase airflow by improving the cylinder head, and manifolding you will make more easy power than by just jacking up the boost.

The mistake most people make is fitting a larger compressor and leaving the small turbine in.

Suppose your existing compressor flows X amount of air through the engine at a certain specified boost. Now you do nothing else but fit a huge compressor to your existing turbo. The same airflow is going to flow at the same boost. The only exception might be that the larger compressor may drop the discharge temperature from the turbo a bit. If you run a decent intercooler, there will be no difference in power at all.

On the other hand a larger exhaust turbine a/r will drop the exhaust back pressure and definitely increase power at the same boost level. Unfortunately it will also increase the boost threshold as well. But one size up is worth a try, you can always replace the original exhaust housing if you are not happy.

Thirty years of playing with turbo engines tells me to first put on the DOHC head and see how it goes. Next fit a longer duration exhaust cam (with stock inlet cam). Last thing fit a larger turbo if you can afford to lose a bit of bottom end response.

If you do all of this, you can easily get something like 50% more power AT THE SAME BOOST LEVEL. Then, you can sneak up the boost a bit, and it will absolutely fly,

Guest Hotplates

Thanx Warpspeed,

I already have a DOHC on my RB30, but I understand your point. So if I improve the piping/manifolding, and then upgrade to a highflow T3/T4 or GT3040 or so it should work a treat.

The reason I was wondering if to increase the compressor size is because the VL T3 that is on my car has a decent looking Turbing housing, but the compressor looks tiny.

I don't care about loosing a little bottom end, I can basically drive away in 5th gear. Boost starts at 1400rpm, have 0.8 bar at 2500rpm. I'd rather be coming on full boost about 3000-3500rpm (if not higher).

Do you think going for a tubular exhaust manifold would help? If I need to go for a new turbo do I go external Wastegate?

I believe the VL T3 turbo uses a 60 series compressor which is the largest T3 size available. Going to a T4 compressor is quite a step up, and may lead to surge problems.

From memory that particular turbo has an 0.63 a/r exhaust housing which you could probably increase to either 0.75 or 0.82 a/r. These housings would bolt straight on and use the same internal wastegate and dump pipe that you already have.

Changing the exhaust a/r is going to make a larger difference than changing the compressor, and is cheap power - if you can find a suitable housing.

If it was me, I would try and beg, borrow, or steal a larger exhaust housing to try. If you can afford one, a GT ball bearing turbo would be far better in every way. Which size yo go for really depends on the low end response, top end power tradeoff.

Whatever you end up doing remember, the biggest gains are going to be found on the exhaust side of the engine.

Fit a pressure gauge to your exhaust manifold. If you have never done this you are in for quite a surprise. Anything you can do to lower the exhaust MANIFOLD pressure is going to make a large improvement. Pressures as high as twice boost pressure are not unusual on stock turbo setups.

This is the key to big horsepower. You may need a monster turbo, or maybe, be a bit clever with choosing optimum exhaust wheel/ar combination will get you there without losing too much response. If it is nearly right, an optimum individual runner exhaust manifold design is important, and will sharpen up the response.

If the exhaust turbine/housing is either miles too big, or miles too small, a good exhaust manifold will not make much difference over a horrible manifold.

Guest Hotplates

Cheers Guys,

I think that will help me, a lot! It looks like I will be going for something a bit bigger (T3/T4), or perhaps a TD07 or TD08. I gotta fix up all the piping (from the exhaust manifold to the piping from the turbo/intercooler to the throttle body).

I will defenetly have to go buy myself a Electronic Boost Controller soon. I've been meaning to do so for months.

Those T3 turbo's on the VL's arn't BB either are they?!?!

Do you really need an EBC Hotplates.

When you get the new turbo get the wastegate to suit say 1 bar or more..

Then a cheap bleeder or mod the actuator that will do the trick nicely if you need more boost than 1 bar.

and save you around $1000. 1 less thing for the cops to find defect you for. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...