Jump to content
SAU Community

Hi Flowed Turbs Max Boost


Waldo
 Share

Recommended Posts

No one is goign to bea really abel to tell you, as hi-flow doesnt tell us anything about the turbo:(

What turbine / exhaust wheel is it running, what A/R exhaust housing? What size compressor and compressor cover???

Even then ppl would most likely be guessing.

If you really want to know then there is a relatively simple few checks you can do. Get a temp probe...a lot of cheap multemeters have them and are reasonable accurate.

So with the probe in between your turbo outlet and intercooler, start winding up boost and check the temperature of the compresses air comign out of the turbo. Best place to be doing this is on the dyno with the bonnet up where you can do numerous runs and check the temp after tweakign the boost higher lower.

Measuring the rwkws on th edyno you will soon get to a point where the car isnt making the same gains as you wind up the boost. This could be for any number of reasons, but if the temp of the compressed air starts goign thru the roof then thats an indicator that its startign to struggle.

2nd test is to drill and tap a hole in the exhaust housing. Plumb up a pressure instrument and as you wind boost into it start to monitor how much pressure is building up in the housing as you start to give it real boost. Once done remove the instrument and put a plug in the hole. You can even use that hole at a later date for an EGT so it wont cause any harm or go to waste

There are two reasonable tests that you can easily do to get a real answer.

As for bush bearing or BB turbos at high boost...no difference. But a bush bearing turbo will be more likely to wear and fail at higher boost. It doesnt mean it will, its just the design of the turbos means that if you start running big shaft rpm then wear increases, with the BB turbo being more durable.

Odds are though if you running a std engine then you wont be running to much boost and if you are keeping an eye on oil quality and temps then you should be fine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GCG hi-flow I had many many moons ago would make no more power past 18psi - but that could have been due to lots of things.......

Max boost doesn't really mean anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...