Jump to content
SAU Community

dump pipe question

SnRuB

By SnRuB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

There is a fair bit of info around on the forums about this. Do a search.

But in summary, a split pipe is heaps better, well worth the extra money.

See BATMBL's thread in the for sale section, has dyno graphs etc. He may be a bit biased (as he sells them), but it looks like there are significant gains in split vs just 3 inch dump pipes, possibly even 10kW or so.

LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted
Hey all,

Im making my own front pipe/dump pipe for an r34 (due to stupid prices from everyone) and am just wondering what the practical benifits of having a split pipe for the wastegate? Would it make much of a difference with a 3inch pipe coming off it?  

Thanks!

Im pretty sure that they free up the flow of the exhaust gases as the standard ones are too restrictive for cars in seach of higher horse power. I think the split dump divides the wastegtae gases and exhaust gases for once again increased flow properties. can anybody confirm??

SnRuB Enthusiast

SnRuB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the responses.

I was pretty sure i knew that the splits were better, less turbulence etc. Just wanted to know if anyone noticed this on our applications. At a guess, most people wouldnt venture far past 250rwkw.

Just weighing it up, its going to be alot harder to weld up a pipe with a split in it :thumbsup:

Thing is with the pipes you can buy, they are 300ish and upwards of that for split. That is just way to pricey for a bit of steel.

SnRuB Enthusiast

SnRuB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Wouldn't it be easier (and better) to weld 2 seperate pipes to the same flange from the turbo, then join the smaller seperate wastegate pipe into the main pipe later? SydneyKid suggests atleast 40mm.

Yeah, that seems to be the way to do it. Im just thinking about the flange, that could be hard. :P

SnRuB Enthusiast

SnRuB

Posted
  • Author
Posted
get it laser cut. Thats how my mate did mine, and its pretty cheap to have shit laser cut ($50) or less.

Cheers. Ill look into that. Should be alot easier than me doing it :P

its internally wastegated. I plan to leave the stock turbo on it now, im not that power hungry, my missus still needs to drive it :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Duncan
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...