Cam belt tensioner & spring

[Godzilla32]

Hey again guys, i know ive asked alot of questions lately but one more has come up. When i first took off the cam belt tensioner it was quite dry/free spinning to rotate. Now that i put sum lube in it, it seems to have gotten smoother and quieter when i spin it. Im curious how do i know if i should replace it? And do i have to replace the spring? Or how do i tell if i need to?

Many thanks,

Deren

[benl1981]

Tensioner is $28 if it is the same as the one that goes on the RB25 and RB30 - replace it if any doubt.

Spring is only to set the tension initially. No need to replace unless really crappy.

Idler is about $48.

[Godzilla32]

Ok i think Nissan said it was quite a bit more for the Rb26 tensioner.. The idler felt nice and smooth.

[benl1981]

nissan charge a sh*t load for the tensioner and idler. They wanted about $120 for tensioner and 250 for the ideler I think.

Search around for part numbers. I posted a thred in here with the part numbers and where to get them cheap. Then checkif RB26 has same part number..

good luck

[GTRgeoff]

Do a search. I've posted a good place to get them cheap. They are on the Hume in Campbellfield.

[Godzilla32]

Ok thanks guys, would you reccomend i change the tensioner Geoff?

[MARRIOTT]

Hi Deren,

When I did mine I replaced tensioner and idler bearings, water pump and the timing belt at the same time. I also replaced the Idler bolt and the tensioner stud as they sometimes break.

I got the bearings from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater, the pump from Bursons (it is the same as VL commodore - some say that there is a difference but only the RB20 is different from the VL commodore) and the belt from Nissan in Oakley. Shop around a few Nissan dealers for the belt as I was quoted up to $120 but eventually got it for $80.

Total cost for the whole job was about $350.

Cheers.

[puckish]

Replace the tensioner. Under no circumstances use the old one.

[GTRgeoff]

Replace the tensioner and idler Deren. Total engine destruction if you have one fail.

[benl1981]

More likely they would get noisy first, but if in ANY doubt replace. Also you can get them cheap! Check water pump too. If you think it is ok (no water from weep holes), no play on shaft etc then leave it - otherwise replace

[Godzilla32]

Kool thanks heaps for the input guys. Ive been quoted about $50 for the tensioner, that wouldnt just be the bearing would it? Im assuming for that price its the whole thing..?

[GTRgeoff]

Comes as a whole item. I recall one guy pressed new bearings in and they lasted about a week before failure.

[Godzilla32]

Dammit i just bought the tensioner bearing only for 24 bucks from BSC, they wanted for $130 for just the idler bearing, no assembly... I need some help in sourcing these 2 parts please...

[GTRgeoff]

Just posting these details as the search on this forum just sux now. Can't go past a couple of months.

BSC Motion Technology

3/ 1968 Hume Hwy Campbellfield VIC 3061

ph: (03) 9357 7515

Idler: NSK 56TB 2801 B01

Tensioner: NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806

Now I spoke to Steve when I got mine there and they were only about $120 for the pair. They apparently had hundreds in the warehouse.

[benl1981]

Look like the same as the R33gtst part numbers. I got them for under $80 the pair. In Sydney though....

[GTRgeoff]

That's because they are the same.

[Robbo]

I also replaced the Idler bolt and the tensioner stud as they sometimes break.

:confused: How often has this happened? Anyone had either let go on them?!

Robbo.

[GTRgeoff]

I've heard of it twice but neither has been generous enough to post down in my research thread.

[Godzilla32]

I will pick up both new ones 2morow they are only about 4 dollars all up..

[benl1981]

is it hard to replace the idler stud? How do you get it out?

I didnt bother with mine nor the tensioner bolt. Went to nissan and they said it would be a hassle to get it. Also showed the bolt to the service team there and they said they would never replace a bolt like that.

The bolt is only going to snap if the bearing siezes etc which puts all the load on the bolt...something eventually has to give..new or old stud I think would be the same issue!