Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the GTR owners have a thread like this, so i thought i'd make up one for us ones that drive gts-t's n gt-t's ( older skyline owners R31 n such can post to ).

k so i've spent roughly.... close to 30 thousand on my car, thats a fair bit of money lol, how much have the rest of you spent to date, or plan on spending in the future???

car: '94 R33 Gts-t..

where the money went.....

$14,500 purchase price,

$7,000 smash repair bill

$1,200 Veilside kit....}

$2,500 full re-spray..} in progress

and theres more to come in the future... :D

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

PFC: 750

Tuning: 450

Bodykit: 800 on top of selling my old kit

Cat and forward sections of exhaust: 1000

Front mount: 1100

Stereo: 1300

Alarm: 850

Rims: 1200 on top of selling the rims my car came with

Strut brace: 130

Gauges & rsm: 800

Tinting: 200

Cam gear: 130

Suspension: 550

Upgraded fuel pump Bosch 040: 230

GFB Hybrid BOV : 150

Cold air box: 120

TOTAL: 9760... OOoppss.. LOL... Still more to come :) This is just on modifications. This doesnt include petrol expenses, oil changes etc...

This thread was created just to rub it in for the GTR guys right? :)

GTR thread: 20k, 15k, 7k, 12k,

GTS-t thread: 2k, 2k, 2k  

LOL

lol nah i was just curious to see if alot of gtst owners and such spend alota money on there car as well, although it would suck being a GTR owner and reading this lol.

haha i like the way alot of you say a figure and then add ( so far ) to the end of it lol, i should proly bring it up again in a year or two and then maybe we'd be up to the GTR figures ;).

Wheels - $2500

Susp - $3500

BC - $300

POD - $100

Zorst - $1200

Stereo - $7000

Brakes - $700

Fansy stuff - $1000

Purchase price - $19000

Total - $35300...........DAMN! and i still have sh!t loads to go.. ;) cars are expensive.

Car - $21K

First Batch of mods - $13K (FMIC, Hi Flow turbo, Injectors, ECU, Tune, Front/Dump, cat, etc)

Blown Motor

Second Batch of Mods - Engine Rebuild $20K (included new everything - bulletproof)

New Turbo & manifold - $3K

New ECU $1400

Greddy Plennum - $1.2K

Buddy Club Wheels - $2K

TIEN Suspension - $1.2K

Clutch - $650

New Springs - $450

Oil Cooler, Thermostat, lines - $1K

Bigger FMIC - $1600

Sound System $1K

Semi Slicks - $1100

Terrific waste of money ;)

Purchased mine 5 years ago and it owes me close to 50k including purchase price and labour for installed parts

Same here :P and i am still getting more mods in the next few weeks. Long engine is still std., for now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...