Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you'll get alot of opinions on this, personally i think there an awsome car, but the shape etc aren't for everyone.

the reason alot are under 100,000kms ( this is what i've been told anyways ), is because japan has stricter emition laws etc than here, so they have to get rid of the cars they have after a certain amount of k's and get something that is newer ( rezz or someone in japan that knows the real reason care to clarify ??? ).

they only really drink alot of fuel if you drive like 150km's everywhere or do alot of city driving ( stop starting at lights etc all the time ), you get roughly 400kms from a full tank ( i do anyways ).

hope that helps :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81167-skyline-question/#findComment-1475190
Share on other sites

R33's are great cars and yes I have heard of speedo's being wound back but I personally wouldn't worry about this. Most Japanese people don't do a lot of driving and as stated, as the car gets older the costs go up. Rego, tax and also servicing goes up dramatically as the Japanese laws state that even slightly worn parts must be replaced so it's actually cheaper to buy a new car than it is to constantly repair an old one. Get an R33 and you won't be dissapointed but make sure you look at a lot of cars and drive them all so you find the best one out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81167-skyline-question/#findComment-1475484
Share on other sites

Its not in australia, only Japan. Once a japanese car gets over three years old, the yearly taxes and fees rise dramatically each year. Service costs are also huge. That why there are so many imports here, south africa, new zealand, because the older the car, the harder it is to get rid of in japan, but much easier to ofload to us. That is why they are low kay, and generally in very good condition. You can get a preservation - or historical significance attached to a limited build car in japan ie: HR31 GTS-r or R32/33/34 GTR, and this helps to keep the cars there, but not for long, they generally find their way somewhere else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81167-skyline-question/#findComment-1475527
Share on other sites

try to avoid the thrashed ones owned by some youngsters, who have lost there driving license and had to sell their line, for example.--------These cars generally come standard as "stuffed".

By straight from Japan, if you can, or from a reputable seller who will register the car for the first time in Oz. !! Odo's are crap.....get any car visually pre-checked.

Or buy mine!! (5uckin' fussy older owner!!)

By the way, I know some fantastic '18 year old drivers''!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81167-skyline-question/#findComment-1477235
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
    • I have a 2 lt in Sydney. It was fitted on a R33 GTR, not used for several years . If you are interested email me on: wrxhoon@yahoo.com I'm not on this forum much .
×
×
  • Create New...