Heat wrap on cooler piping??

[AntonRx7]

Hey

I just installed a front mount intercooler and ihave notice the pipe that goes along side the engine to the drivers side gets very warm. I am thinking of puttting heat wrap on it (the fibreglass sorta rope stuff that you put to heat wrap exhausts) would this be a good idea or is there something better i could you?

Also there was a crack in on of the pipe and i have put a bit of silcon pipe over it with hose clamps will that do the job??

thanks

Anton

[Gamatron]

Hey  

I just installed a front mount intercooler and ihave notice the pipe that goes along side the engine to the drivers side gets very warm. I am thinking of puttting heat wrap on it (the fibreglass sorta rope stuff that you put to heat wrap exhausts) would this be a good idea or is there something better i could you?

Also there was a crack in on of the pipe and i have put a bit of silcon pipe over it with hose clamps will that do the job??

thanks

Anton

To lock the heat in to keep it out? with that shit on there its just gona get hotter n hotter... its designed to keep heat contained.... thats why you wrap your dump etc to prevent the high temp of the metal from heat soaking the rest ov your engine. if you realy wana get rid of this problem id get a vented bonnet so cold air is blowing onto your pluming. but thats just me

not the brightest question but now you kno

[AntonRx7]

well i figure if it keeps the heat in it can keep the heat out

[L 33]

I put the heat wrap on my cooler piping to find that it works very well, the cooler pipe on top of the engine is almost as cold as the cooler itself. Were as before it was warm/hot. but i have read in other threads that the air passes through too quick to even collect heat, try it yourself and see, cost you around $50

[AntonRx7]

yeah i figure yeah its made to keep the heat in but there isn't any heat realy being created in the pipes however there is heat in the engine bay and that is deferntly heating up the pipe as it gets quiet warm when i have felt the pipe.So the heat wrap should stop the heat in the engine bay entering the pipes

[MANWHORE]

I currently have some insulation tape for sale: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=80672

I found that stuff to be pretty good. I found that after a drive, my engine bay was very hot. The piping, especially the one that crosses over the engine was too hot to touch after a spirited drive.

It worked well. Just as a test, after a spirited drive. I took the crossover pipe off to change the spark plugs. The inside of the pipe was only slightly warm, which I suspect was from the air which had been warmed due to compression by the turbo.

Another added benefit, is it gives my car a race look and also covered up ugly rusty pipes.

[nF]

Vented bonnets shouldn't allow air in, they should let air out.

You want air to flow through the radiators and intercoolers, if you start getting positive pressure in your engine bay, you'll start restricting that flow.

[R31Nismoid]

depends where the vents are IMO. Engine bays are not tight like a V8 so its less crucial.

But as for wrapping. The air is moving at such a rate of knots that i would highly doubt the air would increase "that" much in temp anyhow

[TTT]

I think Sydney Kid has said this many times.

The air that goes from the cooler to the inlet manifold passes through that pipe at such speed that it doesn't have time to pick up heat from the pipe.

He has tested this with many temp probes I believe.

I think he said at one point they had 3 temp probes.

1 in the intercooler pipe just outside the turbo, one after the intercooler and one before the throttle.

I think the temp increase from the cooler outlet and the throttle body was tiny.

I'd save my money or spend it on something else..

[fresh]

u will find there is little difference with the tape at 5000 rpm on 7 psi boost, u are using approx. 12500 litres of air per minute (5000rpm/2(4 stroke)*2.5(L)*2(boost)). Say you cooler piping is 5m long, and 8cm in diameter, the volume of cooler piping is 25132 cc or 251.32 litres, therefore the air is flowing through pretty fast. The air in the pipe is 'refreshed' 1000 times per minute or 16 times a second, not much time for heat absorbtion.............

[TTT]

^^^ and that is the techincal version with numbers and so forth..

[The Mafia]

^^^ and that is a full commentary...

[Dale FZ1]

I run a inlet air temp probe in the crossover pipe above the cam cover, and have also spent reasonable time working out the dynamics of heat absorption in the inlet piping.

Main problem for heat soak occurs at low speeds (stop-start traffic conditions), and when running at consistently low throttle openings at low-moderate speeds (= low air flow). The major source of heat transfer is the hot air (@80 deg C) exiting the radiator onto the piping running across between engine and radiator (assuming you have that sort of setup), and secondly the heat rising from the engine itself.

Once you are moving constantly over 80km/h, and/or running reasonable throttle settings, the whole system starts to work as designed, and you can see the temp reading dropping from about +30 deg over ambient to about +10deg over ambient.

The lesson is in understanding how/why your car performs as it does if you engage in a run at the traffic lights.

Insulation of my pipes did show a noticeable reduction of temp differential, to the extent of about 6-8 deg vs uninsulated. Most noticeable though was the difference in the rate of increase (takes longer to hit the max delta), and significant reduction in the whistling noises generated in the aluminium piping.

For me, the noise cut was the biggest improvement from applying insulation.

cheers

[Trust33]

:werd:

[fresh]

good point you bring there, but obviously in traffic inlet temp means bugger all, only once get on the open road the temp will go down, and as the air is flowing at the higher velocity and as such the temps will go down....

[someonestolecc]

I'm not commenting on weather this is effective or not but I thought I'd just mention that the tape I have seen does not work one way as well as the other, it's just the way it's designed (to keep heat IN).

If you want to use it on your cooler pipes, use it the opposite way than which it is designed to be used, this way you're keeping the "heat in" to the outside of the pipe, i.e. away from the pipe.