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psi range for a Trust TD06-20G

boostn32

By boostn32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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netrati Collaborator

netrati

Posted
Posted
I could be wrong but if you look and talk to most experince drifters that do it for al iving they will tell you the same thing.  You will find that not many of them would be running over 14psi.

I know lots of experinced drifters that run over 14psi. I run 19psi, but I'm not saying I'm experinced :P My shop's car runs 22psi. Most of the D1 cars are setup around 1.4+bar.

boostn32 Mentor

boostn32

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i cant see what it would matter what psi u r running if drifting, if you have a decent intercooler and keeping the temps down you wont have a problem. and for high rpm's in drift, just go to any drift comp and listen to the rev limiters, thats sounds like big rpm to me.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Most D1 cars run fully forged, fully built $25 or $30K engines.

Buy a turbo that flows the power you want within the peak of its efficiency - this is, and will always be the best way to match a turbo to your car.

Check here: http://www.driftaustralia.com.au/forum/top...sp?TOPIC_ID=233 for power info on trust turbos

A brilliant turbo for RB20 is hks 2530, at 1.2bar they absolutely rip, Wide power band, responsive - an excellent turbo for a drift car. At that boost you dont have to touch the internals, just keep the rev limit to 8000 rpm and it will love you. You do of course have to change fuel pump and up the rail pressure for it to be safe.

boostn32 Mentor

boostn32

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ok just so everyone knows, its not a stock engine, very far from it, has forgies and preped bottom end. thats all i will say as im not giving away any more info on the internals at this stage. it will have a rev limit of around 8200 - 8500. and yes has over kill supporting mods for the power.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

OK, dont really see why that is relevant, but bottom line is the higher the boost, the more heat in the engine PERIOD, no matter how much you cool the intake temps 15psi will always have less heat than 20 psi - the piston compresses the charge air = heat.

To run higher boost, you need to drop the CR to reduce the amount of heat being generated in the cylinder. Lower CR means more sluggish off boost and longer to come on boost, cams means less cylinder efficiency at lower revs, which will bring boost on later too.

With an RB20, they dont really do much under 3000rpm stock, drop the CR further (for higher boost) and that will move right - throw in some cams and it moves further right again.

Forged pistons will retain less heat than standard, so you can run higher boost (heat being the issue). At 8.5cr with standard pistons, you are playing with fire above 1.2 bar for reliable, constant full boost thrashing. With forged pistons, you could probably run 1.3bar without dramas.

If you intend to run more than this, you should seriously thing about dropping the CR further - but getting boost in before 4000rpm may be a problem on a turbo the size of the td-06-20G.

My advice would be to build your engine at 8.5:1 and see what happens at 1.3bar - if you need more power, or want to tune at higher boost pressure, either be prepared to run a fuel ****tail to increase the ron, run elf fuel or decompress the engine further.

Remeber, if you think only of the top end power, you may well end up with a car that is only suitable for drag, ie, very narrow peaky power band. This not only will be very dissapointing, but could be more expensive to rectify than simply changing your headgasket to decompress the engine slightly, or using a higher ron fuel when thrashing.

my 0.02 - good luck, sounds like it will be a very nice package.

  • 4 weeks later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Their boostd life is 30,000-40,000km's where as BB turbo's are generally up around the 70,000km mark.

If you are not leaning on the turbo hard it will last much longer. Pushed to their airflow limits this is roughly the life you should expect.

I'll do those rb20 airflow plot calcs when I get a little time.

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