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so, while bored at work this week was going through some build threads and saw CRSKmD's thread and saw the free cooling improvements in the front end just by trying to direct the air better and thought i wonder how my car looks. basically, it's terrible gaps from every single point and so with some time today decided to start and tackle that. nice and easy one to start filling in the gap at the top between the body and radiator. then while jacking the car up found this fun surprise, never thought i would have to move it as my car isn't exactly stance nation spec but anyway decided to fix that first. so trimmed it back abit applied some primer and used some old rubber hose around all the edges to ensure it wont rub through secured it all down and while putting the fender back on realised the headlight bolt to fender wasn't installed so chucked a new one and now the headlight actually lines up with the body so big win there. sorry for the poor pictures but went for covering up the gap between the intercooler and radiator and it took me longer than i would like to admit. the indicators have always been really saggy and had huge gaps between them so tried to improve that and then cover up the gaps still in place to try and stop the air getting in behind them. some awesome trimming work has been done to fit the massive China intercooler that used to be on the car but ran out of time to fix that up today sadly so plenty more to do -
You really can't adjust anything fuel or air related without the ECU being told about the additional air or fuel. You _can_ do a few things for efficiency, or cooling, which have knock on effects for power. I.e exhaust, intercooler, intake, but that's about it. Anything else needs an ECU for the engine to actually *know* about the changes that have been made to... uh, the engine. -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Ok, update time. So while solving my fuel pump / melted connector issue, I thought I'd see what voltage I was getting with the factory connector bottleneck removed and the EFI Solutions bulkhead terminals installed. Started the car, battery voltage was bouncing between 13.6 and 13.7 while at fast idle (cold start). Huge improvement over the 12.8 to 13.0 previously. I then installed the ARD 150 amp alternator, on cold start it was bouncing between 13.9 and 14.0. Here is the mystery, I went for a drive and now the battery voltage is 13.5 with the ARD alternator setup. I suppose I'm happy with this, it's rock solid at 13.5 but I can't help but wonder if the factory alternator would have performed just as well. If anyone can explain the mystery difference in voltage on the first cold start 14 volts vs 13.5 I'm now getting while driving, it would be much appreciated! -
By DraftySquash · Posted
@GTSBoythanks for the feedback. I was only worried about the injectors because when I changed the fuel filter, the colour from the fuel from it was pretty dark. Looked nasty to me 😂 Random question, if you get higher CC injectors before a Nistune, would the car run horrible? -
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