Jump to content
SAU Community

injector duty question


rance
 Share

Recommended Posts

i have a 180 and basic mods fmic,bov,larger dump pipe.exhause, intake etc

i have all stock internals and standard ecu...and my guess is my car is runnin pretty rich

i was checking my avcr the other day..and the injector duty (on idle) was at 89%-90%, while driving is 84% average

i know if it hit over the 80 mark..somethings not right..im right now in the process of looking for a safc II...bacuse im too tight to buy a pfc

my question is...can safc fix the injector problem?...i mean if i up the air flow....i will make more power...but the fuel comsuption is still there....i want to save more petrol...with petrol prices around $1.20 p litre...its hektik

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you up the airflow wont it add more fuel causing it to run even richer?

get your avcr or safc when u get it tuned by someone who knows their shit and they'll find the right balance for you.

Joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i already have avcr ...just wanna know if the safc can actually lower the injector duty....

im 70% sure it does...but just based on my limited knowledge

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Safc alone does not necessarily lower the injector duty. Let me try and elaborate. say a car is running a flat 12 afr with a injector duty of 90. By using a FPR and upping the fuel rail pressure, this will make too much fuel get injected. So you use the safc to lower the amount. As a result of the FPR and safc combined, the car is now running a higher fuel rail pressure, yet it is still injecting the same amount of fuel with a duty of 80 and making the same power. raise the fuel rail pressure even more to further lower the duty cycle.

If your car is running rich, that means it's injecting too much fuel. By using the safc to lean out the mixture, that is, inject less fuel for the given air, it is reducing the duty cycle. However, I don't think a slight correcting of the afr using an safc will lower the duty cycle that much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your car wouldn't run if it was running injector duty of 80% at idle, it would stall instantly. It should be running around 1-3% duty at idle.

Yes an afc will allow you to adjust the duty the injectors are running, how else are you going to adjust the amount of fuel going into the engine down?

Your duty should increase as revs increase and as load increases. For example 7000rpm on 12psi at WOT may be reading 80% where as at half throttle only 60% (only an example) and at 3500 rpm at half throttle maybe 30%.

The duty of the injector basically tells you how much fuel is getting put into the engine (assuming fuel pressure and injector size is constant). The fact that your AVCR is stating duty of higher than 80% at idle tells me that your avcr is reading incorrectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar.  Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. 
    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
    • Any chance u could let us know where your based ?
    • That’s a great deal and I would jump on it if you were closer. Melbourne is a bit of a hike for me though unfortunately 
×
×
  • Create New...