Hypothetical - $10k to spend on rs4 upgrades

[Talej]

The scenario is you have AU$10,000 to spend on performance/handling etc modificatons for a series 1 rs4. What would you spend it on to make the most out of the money? Keeping in mind that you can't spend all the money on parts alone because although a lot of things can be done without paying for labour, some things can't especially if you don't have the right tools.

Without trying to achieve any specific big power figures but just create an all round good car. The car is completely stock to start off with....

My first though would be manual conversion but that is probably not everyone's cup of tea.

[AlexCim]

Well, as for at home mods

Jaycar EBC/DFA + tune (paid to someone) ($500)

Sway bars ($400)

Strut brace (unlucky like me) ($250)

Coilovers ($1500)

FMIC kit ($1500)

Exhaust (sorta pay someone, if it has right mounts, it a DIY job) (inc dump/front/cat/catback) ($1500)

CAI for airbox/pod ($50)

Pod/Air filter ($100)

Fuel pump (should be find to DIY if you are remotly mechanically minded) ($400)

** EDIT **

Do turbo and exhaust manifold at the same time. This is DIY, done it to an S14 takes a few hours ($2500)

That should bring you somewhere around 10k

[mcnamg]

this is what i would do

- exhaust

- air intake either pod in a sealed enlcosure or a high flow panel filter

- modify the air intake for better air flow

- suspension for sure including sway bars

- if auto the ebc and dfa probably jaycar and maybe the sitc that sk is playing with at the moment or a manual conversion which would be my pic and then a plug in like fcon or full aftermarket ecu depends on $$$ though

- 34gtt cooler or front mount cooler

- split dump pipe

- upgraded turbo

thats it so far dont know how far that would be over or under $10k but it depends on how much you can do yourself i suppose

i would love a manual conversion myself but it would not be something i could od myself and would cost $$$ i am sure

[R33stagea]

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

[emanuelt]

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

Hope your going to post some pics of your upgraded Stagea. :flamed:

[R33stagea]

i dont even own a dig camera!!

ill let someone else take pictures at eastern creek the week i get it back!!!!!

[Burns]

What about your brakes and suspension? You don’t want to put brown streaks on your new seats.

[Talej]

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

How do you find the shift kit? Well worth the money?

[R33stagea]

i was told the shift kit was a must for the power it should make(not going to come out with any claims yet!!)

syd kid put me on to a guy in SA

brakes and susp next.................................................

[Tangles]

i was told the shift kit was a must - syd kid put me on to a guy in SA QUOTE]

Hi R33stagea' date='

Ive had my Stagea on the Adelaide roads for 1 week now, and would be very intrested in finding out who does the shift kit that you spoke of.....

Could you let me know please? Thanks very much. :uh-huh:

bwilkeson@bigpond.com

Brendan

[ICE12]

I've installed the upgraded valve body that SK was recommending a while ago. I got it from adelaide. Now to remember the name? It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051. PH 0883700430. Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder.

Cheers ICE

[Tangles]

It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051.  Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder. Cheers ICE

Sweet, thanks Ice! I'll keep that in mind for when Im ready to have it installed.

Hey, I too have a Dayz edition (just found that out!).

Brendan. :evil:

[Sydneykid]

I have added a new item to my list, well maybe not a NEW item but I have certainly moved it up the scale a bit. BRAKES, I was playing with an XR6 Turbo last night and ended up with NO STOPPING. That was very exciting as I was braking very late and making sure I had higher corner speed to offset the power deficiency. He slowed up a bit more than I needed to, so I had to grab a bit of extra brake and there was nothing there.

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads (refer Stagea brakes thread).

Considering the power output potential of your thing R33stagea and the lack of handling mods, I would be looking very seriously at a brake upgrade.

[Tangles]

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

[Sydneykid]

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.  

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

Hi Brendan, I have started a new thread for Stagea Brakes, all the info (so far) is on there. OK on the DBA rotors, we use their slotted rotors on most of the race cars and all of the road cars.

[Tangles]

Hi SK - Yup, had a look at that as soon as it came up. Thank you.....

Well done on posting up the info that ppl's can use for those extremely important things called brakes!

FYI ppl's, Ive got a mod'd Fireblade (150rwhp up from 115 stock).... yay to me, and as part of my 9grand spent on mods I did a 17inch front wheel conversion from a USA model CBR600 F3. With the new rim, I couldnt use the standard sized 310mm rotors, and have to use F3 296mm rotors, due to offest size.

Even with the top pads on the market, cleaned up calipers, and stainless steel braided lines, the brakes arnt anywhere near as good as what they were - and believe me, when you've gone up in power by 30% and dropped weight by a few kgs, you really notice the lack of feel and bite. At xxx speeds it can be scary!

For those that are spending say over 5k on engine mods, think long and hard about doing a cheap DBA upgrade, as per SK's Stagea Brake thread. You will notice the difference, and be glad you upgraded.

Cheers to you all, good luck with the mods!

Brendan :evil:

[R33stagea]

you mean to say ive had to spend all this money to make it go,NOW ive gotta spend more to make it stop!!!

i thought thats what the gravel at the end is for!!!!!!!

[Sydneykid]

you mean to say ive had to spend all this money to make it go,NOW ive gotta spend more to make it stop!!!  

i thought thats what the gravel at the end is for!!!!!!!

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused: :confused: :confused:

[CS_180]

hey SK question where in syd do u work?

[Tangles]

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused:  :confused:  :confused:

Actually, in order to stop, try Both! Turn left real hard, then a quick right turn even harder, and 'hopefully' you'll stop, facing the way you came! But I wouldnt want to try it!!! :innocent:

Look at it this way, the brakes stop you from dying and the suspension keeps the tread evenly on the ground (so that the brakes can stop you from dying!).

If you're spending cash modifying a vehicle then spend roughly 25-30% of your budget on the brakes and suspension. Thats just my 5c, for whatever its worth.

On the CBR900RR Ive had all the suspension rebuilt by an ex 1980's 500GP rider to suit my 2m tall 125kg frame, but am saving for my last 2 mods, $500 310mm wave rotors with the correct offset, and a $1200 Ohlins rear suspension linkage.

The bike goes hell hard thru the Adelaide Hills (I go out 1st thing on a weekend morning to minimise traffic density and the risk of being BUSTED). But it'll be a different beast again once the brakes are back up to spec, and the rear is all sorted with top spec Ohlins (I get stuff at wholesale, so save mega $$).

'Aint mod's fun?

BW :evil: