Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are basically T28 Ballbearing turbos, good turbo's for a RB26 or RB30. The problem is if you want to use the stock GTR manifolds they have a T25 flange where the S15 Turbos have a T28 flange so not a direct bolt on.

Probably easier to go single or get a couple of Modded GTR turbos (T28 spec)

The cartridges in the S15 GT28BB's would probably work OK but the housings differ from RB26 specific turbos to suit the single SR20 application .

I prefer the larger single for cost and complexity reasons but if I had to use twin GT28's I would use those with the more open bladed turbines . The compressors on those S15 GTBB's are a specific type for the OEM but are available as replacement cartridges .

a few people have used these turbo's as a poor mans version of N1's.

also, I believe that UAS's "boostedZED" uses or used these on his 300zx.

which is a 3L engine and he was producing some decent figures with very little lag.

But since the 300zx uses T25's as standard, the S15 turbo's which are also T2 based turbo's were much easier to adapt then to an RB engine.

One more thing to note..

NOT all S15 turbo's are Ball Bearing.

and no, not all JAP S15's have BB turbo's.

here is how you can tell.

All that matters is the garret number, everything else just confuses matters

466541 = ball bearing

466543 = bush bearing

for the second bit of the number

-001 = S14 turbo (no splitter between wastegate and turbine exit)

-002 = S15 turbo (splitter between wastegate and turbine exit)

These numbers should be stamped on to a little plate which is on the housing between the compressor and exhaust side of the turbo.

Cheers

the flanges on the manifold will need an adapter.

also, I'm not sure if the compressor housing and wastegate sit in the right spot.. you may need to rotate the compressor housing to suit..

I am sure about the manifold adapter but not sure about the second part..

you will have to see someone that has done it or cross that bridge when you get to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...