Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples. Last month I got a defect for having a pod filter in the car.

Let it go for so long because I thought I would be a simple thing to fix. Nothing major, I didnt even get a yellow sticker as it was apparently just a minor category, but now that I have been calling around now it appears that because the copper put a tick in the box for "Full Inspection" when I take it to a AUVIS (Authorised Unregistered Vehicle Inspection Station for those who didnt know) to be cleared they will still be obliged to go over the whole car and ping me for whatever they find.

I'm a little pee'd off because the copper assured me all they would do later is check to make sure I had a box fitted like what is written in the report when he was writing it out hence why I didnt complain so much at the time.

Now there are 2 routes I can go with this.

Plan A) get the car engineered. For $460 incl GST I can get the Pod, Wheels, Guages exhaust, etc officially legalised. Problem is that to Engineer the car properly they will want me to get an official RTA Emissions test down at their Botany facility because they see my engine as being modified thanks to the FMIC, normally they would just do a drive-by Decibel test.

Kinda dont want to to that since I have a racing cat in there at the moment. By that I mean a bit of pipe with 2 flanges at both ends and the temp probe fitting so it hooks back into the ECU. I would need to replace that at more cost (Unless I can find a replacement 2nd hand) since the exhaust shops I have talked to dont have ones with the temp fittings, and will need to just use a universal one and get it modified to take the temp probe at a cost of $320. Then I can tell the RTA and they will cancel the Defect and I can take the Defect Notice and find the issueing officer and tell him he can take it back and shove it up his @ss, then go home feeling that much better.

As you can see its starting to get expensive.

Plan B) Replace my Pod and Cat and let the AUVIS inspect me and hope they dont find anything else.

So either way I need to source a factory Airbox and a standard Cat.

If anyone has some they can sell for cheap-cheap, or better still let me use for a while, then I can implement Plan B then I return them later after visiting the AUVIS.

If you are in the Sydney area and can help me then I will come to you to pickup and also to return just to make it easier, I dont mind driving out to central coast (or equiv. distance) if its necessary.

Oh, and before I forget and I get flamed, its for a R33 Series-I GTS-t.

Got a few leads on Airboxes and stuff already, thanks guys. Still worried about my Cat, no one seems to have one lying around or that they can seperate for a me for a few weeks :P

d00dz, want a racing pipe for a few weeks? Car will go hard and blow muchos flames :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...