Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i posted it up on the other thread you done.....it wont work if you have a powerFC though

Edit

tell you what...i will go and do it on mine now just to make sure i posted correctly as its been a while since i needed to do it

i just done it....and it works.......heres what you do link out the test terminal with the "-" terminal....turn the ignition on....then remove the the link....then your code will be displayed(code 55 is ok)Got it???On another note to bleed the 4WD system.......The connector you see near the test connector is the link out for the pump.......over fill the bottle in the rear of the car then disconnect the bleed connector and turn the ignition on......the pump will prime....nows the time to get underneath and open the bleed nipple on the rear of the transfer case(on the slave cylinder)If doing a V spec do the rear diff nipple aswell...and theres the onscreen test i posted in your other thread.....To reset the airbags(airbag light) turn the ignition on and push the door lamp switch on the drivers side at least 5 times within a few seconds of turning the ignition on.....This works on ALL Nissan SRS airbag units....there is also a 4WD and hicas test function....but i CBF typing the ins and outs of it......

***in hell dude!!.....And again....cut and pasted from the other thread....

the engine check light on the dash will give you a series of flashes....eg on once then on four times is code 14....once you have done a decode post up the code and i will tell you what it means

:D

spoon_feed.jpg

Don't get cranky dude...I'm just saying.. I tried the earthing out to chk one...nothing.

I shorted out "-" to test termonal, turned on the ignition and removed it...nothing

tried the 'press the outside 2 buttons' on the Mfd..... nothing

In regards to the ecu test.....you eitheir A)have a power FC or B) Not doing the test correctly.......They are the only 2 reasons the test wont work...The MFD test.....you have to hold the return and the mode button in while turning on the ign until the GTR symbol comes up...then before it goes out let go and push the toggle switch 5 times....

i have a nismo mfd and cant remember how the standard one works but try this.....switch to the right icon push the accel to the floor then push the toggle and see what happens...... you have to do the computer diag....its more important

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
×
×
  • Create New...