Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Afternoon people..

I've been deciding on whether or not to reset my ECU. My reasoning for this is that the car only recently arrived in the country and would have "learnt" on 100+ RON petrol that they have in japan.

As i'm now running the car on 98 Octane fuel the timing maps and so forth would be a bit different for what i'm running.

Because of this I was thinking of resetting the ECU this weekend and letting the car relearn it's mappings.

what i'm after is the procedure for helping the car relearn after i've reset it.

Previous posts I found this:

reset the ECU - than do

3 x 3000rpm to redline

2 x idle to redline

take the car for a decent drive..

This is what i'll probably do - does anyone have any recommendations - personally don't like free revving the car to redline - anyone have any suggestions/experiences with resetting it.

Thanks,

Links

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81819-retuning-ecu-procedure/
Share on other sites

My 96 r33 doesnt do anything differantly after i reset the ecu. Done it a few times now, same result. Im sure it does affect some skylines however not mine..

Just wanted to let ya know incase you reset it and your waiting and waiting for something to exciting happen :D

Anyways I think once you have reset it, you can just go for a bit of a hard drive around for 30 minutes and that should do the trick.

Was about to reset it last night when I found I need a decent socket wrench to undo the battery terminal - damn the nuts on tight..

will probably do it this weekend when I can a) buy some proper tools and B) see what the hell i'm doin and there isn't a gale force wind..

I'm still tossing up whether to do it - at the moment car is running well - doesn't appear to be running rich or lean - backfire has gone away (probably from ecu learning and also just getting everything worked out - had been on a boat for 3 months and hardly driven)

So i'm weighing up as to whether it's worth the trouble - obviously won't do anything bad - but i'm pretty happy with how the car's going.

Is there a chance I could see improved fuel economy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...