Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im after a set of Volk Challenge's 18' and white if any1 knows where i can get them, it would b much appreciated.

Or even a set of white 18' rims minimum 8' wide.

cheers Paul

j-plus on the forums here has a set of 18" challenge in silver, you can always remove the rubber and powdercoat the rims... Think he was selling them at a dam good price.

Judging your name, you have a gtr, but the ones he is selling are for gtst (staggered), ie 18x8 and 18x9

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81899-volks/#findComment-1487556
Share on other sites

Go the VOLKS....

Yeah you want a set for a GTR i assume....

Cheapest way to get some is either find them for sale in the forums or contact a parts only importer who can buy them direct foir you. Also might want to check out the sponcers in your state as im sure you have a wheel shops as a sponcer and they offer discounts...

My 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81899-volks/#findComment-1487632
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.
    • Do you think they'll merge there performance divisions and we'll end up HoMo?
    • Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either. Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated. Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.
    • Haltech have a nice comparison table between the Elite and Nexus models -  https://www.haltech.com/ecu-buyers-guide/ In general, the Nexus is better. Haltech have some nice product videos on their YouTube page, I'd have a look at those and if you're still not confident what way to go, I'd give them a call. They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out. 
    • Not to mention, that the correct diagnostic approach to "electrical thing does not work" is to start with what I outlined above. You only do swaptronics for things that can't be tested really easily, like ignition coils, AFMs, etc etc. And even then you hold your breath in case the fault that possibly killed the original unit kills the swapped in unit too.
×
×
  • Create New...