Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket radiator caps and oil cap! Do they WORK?

West

By West,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mik Experienced

Mik

Posted
Posted
Hi all, just want to know from those who have Apexi Gt radiator cap, oil cap....ect..on their car, do they really work?

  For instance the Apexi Gt radiator cap, it said to hold up to 1.3 kg of pressure and help raise boiling point...ect... Is it real?

Yes for the radiator cap and the oil cap still stops the oil from coming out.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic.

The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The oil cap won't offer any benifits however the radiator cap will under race conditions or heavy traffic.

The only problem with a higher pressure rad cap is that you will be much more likely to blow radiator hoses.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Well I have noticed a big difference going from a shagged cap to a decent one.. it can make what seems like an inefficient radiator perfectly fine.

The usual brassy coloured ones you seem to find in australia seems to pretty reasonable quality though.. I guess because the big cars in Australia are designed to run under high outback heat..

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

case in point...

on RHS is my old stock R33 cap.. (painted by me ricer red, ignore that).

on the LHS is your generic $10 one from any parts place now on my 32. Note the thicker top pressure seal, and how the rubber comes over the top of the cap.

I am not sure whether the stock GTR one is anything the same, but its not hard to improve on the standard design..

Anybody have a picture of a Greddy/Apexi/probably overpriced ricer one to compare?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
case in point...  

on RHS is my old stock R33 cap.. (painted by me ricer red, ignore that).  

on the LHS is your generic $10 one from any parts place now on my 32. Note the thicker top pressure seal, and how the rubber comes over the top of the cap.  

I am not sure whether the stock GTR one is anything the same, but its not hard to improve on the standard design..  

Anybody have a picture of a Greddy/Apexi/probably overpriced ricer one to compare?

the pink one in your picture has had parts of the rubber seal break off. it wasn't like that when in good condition.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

West,

Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not?

The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot.

For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory.

102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
West,

 

Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not?

 

The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot.

 

For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory.

 

102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

I would say 100 is too hot any time. on the GTR the water temp never gets above 83 degrees on the track, that's including 10 lap race when pushing very hard (too hard!). that's with stock radiator and a cusco cap. car is making 250kw atrw but does run a big oil cooler which would help. for me 90 i reckon is too high.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

my GTR with oil cooler hit 105 water temp at the track on a 35degree day...

fatter radiator methinks :D

Also, gordo - while the rubber lip might make a small difference, the only thing affecting the rad cap from opening is the spring - higher spring force, higher pressure to open :D so all the aftermarket 'high pressure' caps have are a stiffer spring... much like an aftermarket wastegate actuator :)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

holy sh1t mate. 105 is pretty well up there. may i ask where is the oil cooler mounted? i haven't pounded it on a 35 degree day though either so that would certainly make a difference.

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

The cooler is in the duct in the front bar passenger side. It is poorly placed, so we're going to go at the bar with a dremel... might also put in an exit duct in the side of the front bar ala Nismo style

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah mine is in the passenger duct also, but with an aluminium duct built around it to duct all the air through the core, and with an exit duct in front of the wheel.

what kind of oil temps were you getting on that day?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah I would say that was helping drag up the water temp a bit too. i guess they both feed off each other to a degree and once they start to go up it's a bad cycle. having done a few track days this year and even a 10 lap race (including comp pitstop etc) i haven't got oil temp over 95 and water temp never over 83. i think the duct and giving the air an escape will help a lot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • joshuaho96
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • MBS206
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
×
×
  • Create New...