Aftermarket radiator caps and oil cap! Do they WORK?

[GTR032]

After i put on a NISMO 1.3bar radiator cap ive replaced the radiator top tank, 3 hoses near the rear of the engine and split two hoses at the front of the engine. oh well..blessing in disguise I guess.

[Ronin 09]

  Beer Baron said:

yeah I would say that was helping drag up the water temp a bit too. i guess they both feed off each other to a degree and once they start to go up it's a bad cycle. having done a few track days this year and even a 10 lap race (including comp pitstop etc) i haven't got oil temp over 95 and water temp never over 83. i think the duct and giving the air an escape will help a lot.

Are you running std turbos? I'm running the factory ones at 1 Bar - I think the ball bearing turbos run cooler.

Also, you're right if I get the water temps under control then the oil temps fall off too (and vice versa).

I'm pretty sure the readings are right, as i've got defi gauges for pressure, oil temp and water temp.

However, the readings are temps as they exit the engine - the top hose for the rad, and in the remote oil filter block before the cooler. It would be nice to have a reading after the oil cooler and at the bottom rad hose to see what temps the engine actually sees.

Another thing I was thinking was that the engine is running a bit lean, but then the A/F ratios are good at bang on 12:1

Therefore, my conclusions are:

1. the oil cooler is poorly placed

2. the rad is either partially blocked or can't cope with the heat - going to go for a 43mm one anyway

[DOUGMO]

as i understand, radiator caps have that releif of

pressure for a reason(to keep the pressure to a safe

level in your engine) to save head gaskets and hoses,

they are meant to bleed coolant into the overflow

bottle and then suck it back when the engine cools

down.

othewise the coolant level would be to low when

cold and there would be no reason for an overflow

bottle at all

[Cubes]

N1 water pumps work well at the track.

High rpm = water cavitation.. Which is something the N1 water pump doesn't do.

[West]

  Cubes said:

West,

 

Have you got a 'real' temperature guage to determine if the car is getting hot or not?

 

The stock temp guage is a 3 stage. Its either cold in the middle or hot.

 

For example the temperature range in the middle is from 72degree's right up to 102degree's from memory.

 

102degree's I would consider to be too hot, especially if it is reaching these temps on the street. On the track sure, lap after lap on a stock cooling system will see these temps but definitely not on the street.

Yes i have PFC handcontroller so i can tell exactly. On Phillip Island, after 4 laps mine only read 87c compare to average normal driving of 80c and i also have an oil cooler too.