Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes

Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .

Daleo
Daleo

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is. Where have you been all my life? Also; Tyres, not tires. Welcome to Australia.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

Posted Images

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

does anyone have any s2 c34 brakes that they dont want?

doesn't matter if they are a bit warped, and the thicker the better

also the cheaper or freeer the better

chiuck me a pm if you can help

qld preffered

Link to comment
Share on other sites
airbox Contributor

airbox

Posted
Posted

I have now bought my replacement calipers from off a r33gtst, sumitomo 4 pots ( front ) ans sumitomo 2 pots (rear).

I shall get the gtst discs front and back next.

I have a question, will these calipers and discs fit with the standard 16" wheels? Series1 stagea.

I hope so!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

R33's come with 16's standard so you know the diameter will be ok. To quickly check the offset/disc clearance just make sure you have atleast 20-25mm of extra space between the rim and the stock 2pot caliper, the 4pots stick out around that much further than the 2pots.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

that would work, the rotor offset is the same i believe, don't the S1 guys use trimmed down R33 rotors as replacements anyway? trial it and then you'd know for sure if fitment will be an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wolven Contributor

wolven

Posted
Posted

Hey guys Im looking at a complete brake overhaul for my S1,

just wondering on recommended people to go see in Adelaide southernish area

anyone had dealings with All Clutch and Brake Services? from what im told i need my calipers need to be overhauled, new pads and new rotors, my stag is reasonably stock (soon to add boost controller and safcII) so just wondering what you would recommend as I dont think i will need to upgrade too much even though there will be more power

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Can't suggest a shop but can recommend you get some better quality pads and replace fluid with Motul RBF600. If you are not a driver who stands on their brakes all the time and not intending track days then that and new stock rotors should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
Can't suggest a shop but can recommend you get some better quality pads and replace fluid with Motul RBF600. If you are not a driver who stands on their brakes all the time and not intending track days then that and new stock rotors should be fine.

i've done a lot of reading and for a sports pad or to increase the capability of your brakes i'd be looking at some qfm pads

think they are still developing the s1 pad so maybe you could look at getting someones s2 brakes and get those put on, this will get you up to a 290mm rotor which is closer to acceptable for a car of the stageas weight

how much were you looking to spend on recoing the stock brakes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wolven Contributor

wolven

Posted
Posted
how much were you looking to spend on recoing the stock brakes?

I assume that last bit is directed at me too be honest I have no idea hence why i came to the bible of stagea knowledge... what ever it costs to a decent but not over compensating as i will probably be getting rid of the car this year and it will never see a race track

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
I assume that last bit is directed at me too be honest I have no idea hence why i came to the bible of stagea knowledge... what ever it costs to a decent but not over compensating as i will probably be getting rid of the car this year and it will never see a race track

why change it then? rebuild kit will be hard to get and exxy. callipers leaking? get some cheap s1 replacements from someone who has upgraded

anyone in adelaide know where i can get slotted disc's for my s2 stag? also what pads do you guys reccomend for high performance street use.....i.e. occasion track day? any estimates on prices?

qfm ar1m pads, now for s2 stags, ebay $179 = win

less dust than bendix ultimates and waaaaaaaaaaay better performance, that with slotted rotors will be a good upgrade

pm "rs73" he could get me new slotted rotors very cheap

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wolven Contributor

wolven

Posted
Posted
why change it then? rebuild kit will be hard to get and exxy. callipers leaking? get some cheap s1 replacements from someone who has upgraded

*n00b statement* mechanic told me the calipers needed a full overhaul and it would take a couple days plus apparently the rotors are warped.... brakes pulse a bit shudder when hot under hard braking.

the next step was going to see if i could get some second hand ones but i dont really know what im looking for... im guessing if i get second hand calipers its probably still a good idea to get new discs and pads?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
*n00b statement* mechanic told me the calipers needed a full overhaul and it would take a couple days plus apparently the rotors are warped.... brakes pulse a bit shudder when hot under hard braking.

the next step was going to see if i could get some second hand ones but i dont really know what im looking for... im guessing if i get second hand calipers its probably still a good idea to get new discs and pads?

if rotors are warped then you may be able to skim them (lathe them flat) but if they are worn and already getting pretty thin then this is not a good idea

second hand calipers can be had cheap, just look at the pistons and dust seals and make sure they havn't been leaking

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted
qfm ar1m pads, now for s2 stags, ebay $179 = win

Thanks mate, just one favor to ask, if you're going to purchase please don't go through ebay. Contact us direct on either 1300 884 836 or email sales at gslrallysport dot com

We'll still honor the free shipping as per on ebay.

Regards,

Greg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
Thanks mate, just one favor to ask, if you're going to purchase please don't go through ebay. Contact us direct on either 1300 884 836 or email sales at gslrallysport dot com

We'll still honor the free shipping as per on ebay.

Regards,

Greg

no worries, still holding off on mine as im not sure if im gonna get r34 brakes yet

how come not through ebay? do sau members get a discount?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...