Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes

Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .

Daleo
Daleo

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is. Where have you been all my life? Also; Tyres, not tires. Welcome to Australia.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

Posted Images

DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
The RDA954's fit Series 2 AWD Stag calipers without machining down the OD (no rubbing or clearance issues). We have fitted them to one car already and will fit them to my Stag soon.

did the 954S fit your Stag with no issues?

Guys, I know a couple of people have had a positive experience with these rotors on S2 RS-Four V *without* machining the OD down, but my experience was different... I discovered serious rubbing/binding after fitting these rotors without machining down the outside diameter; there was no apparent binding after fitting them and checking the sliding section of the caliper for clearance (where it gets closest, in the middle) but at about a K or so's low speed driving down the street I had smoke billowing out of the front wheels. It definitely needs some metal removed from the OD; I'm going to have 3mm taken off to make it match the original rotors.

Also, has anybody else who's fitted these noticed that the original rotors are ~37mm thick (by my measurement) but the RDA's are ~33mm thick? Plus the minimum thickness on the original rotors is marked as 26mm, while the new ones are marked as 22mm. This means a difference in piston travel of 4mm which may by significant. At the very least, it approximately half-emptied my master cylinder reservoir once they were on and the pistons were in the new location.

I've now gone back to the original rotors, again. And I'll have to get the new ones machined, again. But one day, one day I will fit new rotors to this car...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted
what is difference if any between S1 and S2 brakes? ie rotor size

Basically rotor size and offset (series 1 is smaller). Easier to find series 1 replacements; I think you don't have to stuff about getting series 1 rotors machined to fit. Check the first post of this thread for series 1 rotor part numbers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Stooge007 Rising Star

Stooge007

Posted
Posted
Guys, I know a couple of people have had a positive experience with these rotors on S2 RS-Four V *without* machining the OD down, but my experience was different... I discovered serious rubbing/binding after fitting these rotors without machining down the outside diameter; there was no apparent binding after fitting them and checking the sliding section of the caliper for clearance (where it gets closest, in the middle) but at about a K or so's low speed driving down the street I had smoke billowing out of the front wheels. It definitely needs some metal removed from the OD; I'm going to have 3mm taken off to make it match the original rotors.

Also, has anybody else who's fitted these noticed that the original rotors are ~37mm thick (by my measurement) but the RDA's are ~33mm thick? Plus the minimum thickness on the original rotors is marked as 26mm, while the new ones are marked as 22mm. This means a difference in piston travel of 4mm which may by significant. At the very least, it approximately half-emptied my master cylinder reservoir once they were on and the pistons were in the new location.

I've now gone back to the original rotors, again. And I'll have to get the new ones machined, again. But one day, one day I will fit new rotors to this car...

thanks for the update :)

more to think about :)

are the RS Four S rotors the same as RS Four V etc.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
QLDR31 Community Regular

QLDR31

Posted
Posted
what is difference if any between S1 and S2 brakes? ie rotor size

If your thinking of upgrading from S1 to S2 Stagea.

Just go to R33 Skyline brakes, as they are easier to get discs and pads for and better performance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted
If your thinking of upgrading from S1 to S2 Stagea.

Just go to R33 Skyline brakes, as they are easier to get discs and pads for and better performance.

As we can get Rotor`s & Pad`s for S2 for UNDER $300 i call that Cheap, you have much more about then most think,you have a PAD that is 157 mm long it`s much the same as have smaller pad`s with extra clamping pressure ,so there about same,S2 brake which every one like`s to BAG`s are ok if you don`t think your in a SKYLINE,cheer`s Chuckie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted
found direct fit front pads for s2 stagea EBC's part number DP1671 was 95 trade price, 125 retail i think

Yep, that number's correct. Our price on the DP1671 is $86.

But you're only talking about EBC Black, they're a pretty ordinary street pad at the best of times, and NOTHING in the way of performance.

If you're after something that's going to pull the car up a bit better than stock, then we've got both QFM options on the shelf.

- High Performance Street, QFM HPX, Bendix Ultimate equivalent, $119 for the set.

- Street/Track, QFM A1RM, Ferodo DS2500 equivalent, $179 for the set.

In comparison EBC Green are $195, so the QFM are far and away the best value for money S2 pads!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
andy65b Veteran

andy65b

Posted
Posted
Will R32 GTR brakes work on an M35? I know I can pretty much use R34 brakes but unsure about 32's.

perfect fit. You need to get R32 rotors to match.

And grind a small piece back for clearance of the rotor.

That is what I have on my M35.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Houdini Rising Star

Houdini

Posted
Posted
perfect fit. You need to get R32 rotors to match.

And grind a small piece back for clearance of the rotor.

That is what I have on my M35.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks, going to get it done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
teknostorma Contributor

teknostorma

Posted
Posted
.

But you're only talking about EBC Black, they're a pretty ordinary street pad at the best of times, and NOTHING in the way of performance.

In comparison EBC Green are $195, so the QFM are far and away the best value for money S2 pads!

Just put the black stuff in my car and they pull up good even when cold $70 :D

good luck pulling up the green stuff without warming them up first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

it's not about back green red etc

as long as they'r Reg90 material they'll work from cold

i had no problem on reds even in frosty morning - no need warm up

Link to comment
Share on other sites
chuckie Mentor

chuckie

Posted
Posted
Yep, that number's correct. Our price on the DP1671 is $86.

But you're only talking about EBC Black, they're a pretty ordinary street pad at the best of times, and NOTHING in the way of performance.

If you're after something that's going to pull the car up a bit better than stock, then we've got both QFM options on the shelf.

- High Performance Street, QFM HPX, Bendix Ultimate equivalent, $119 for the set.

- Street/Track, QFM A1RM, Ferodo DS2500 equivalent, $179 for the set.

In comparison EBC Green are $195, so the QFM are far and away the best value for money S2 pads!

G`Day why come here & BAG another BRAND :) ,NO NEED TO DO THAT ,really ,now i have EBC BLACK & have had no worries,& as your PRODUCT is like nearly X2 the cost of the EBC ,i don`t see that as GOOD VALUE :) ,

this is not the PLACE TO BAG other Product`s ,+ EBC have DROP PRICE of pad`s world wide,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted

Get a grip Chuckie... I wasn't bagging EBC Black, and indeed we're a premium RDA dealer, and do quite a large volume of them... but if you think EBC Black are a performance pad by any stretch of the imagination you're sadly very mistaken. Nothing I said in my post wasn't true, and EBC Black are nothing more than an ordinary street pad. Compare equivalent performance pads to the QFM HPX or A1RM, and then come and tell me they're not good value...

... and if you read the post above yours clearly we're not the only ones who think so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • thx78
      Boost level and torque curve

      By thx78 · Posted

      so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • Lithium
      Boost level and torque curve

      By Lithium · Posted

      That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...