Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you use an R33 brake stopper? Or does it need to be specific for a WC34?

Yes but will needed to have mods done ,

I did one for BUBBA ,& have same type on mine but modded different to his,

$300+ added to $300+ doesnt equal $10000 chuckie lol

Why don`t you worry about the details, $300+$300 + pads + lines + brakestopper is $1000 ok if you can get pads lines & stopper for unders $400 you done well .

but i guess you don`t read to well ,Just stick to your own type of car THANK YOU

I thought he was more going that you put too many 0's. Figured you meant 1,000 but you put 10,000 :P

Thanks for info on stopper. Anyone able to confirm this?

Sorry if this has been answered, but haven't had time to read the thread properly. Just chasing part numebrs for front and rear brakes on a s1 rs4.

From the first post, am I right that pads are:

1250BP (F)

1144BP ®

And front rotors are same as S14 (DBA4909)?

Anyone have a part number for the rear rotors?

REALLY ,

IF YOU HAVE NOTHING GOOD TO ADD IN THREAD DON`T POST CRAP ,PEOPLE TRY TO GET INFO NOT DRIBBLE :cheers:

Yes, Really!!! Pretty sure I did add something good - I added some clarity, because you dont seem to be able to post a coherient response yourself.

I wouldnt want someone thinking they needed to spend $10k on brakes, irrespective of if they own a C34 or an M35 :)

should i put 'lolz' at the end of the line instead of 'lol'?

i was joking chuckie!!!!!

anyway, i should add that brake stoppers were one of the best brake mods i did to my cars. cant find one for M35 tho which sucks

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear

Because all though the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overall vehicle braking, it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the rear brakes, more often than not, work just as hard in the back as they do in the front when pushed hard. The biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear, hitting the hills/track, having the rear fade out without them noticing, and put more pressure on the front, which fade, and then get blamed...

When it comes to pads in particular, there's VERY few applications where we don't recommend running the same pads front and rear. VERY light front wheel drives and Porsches (the later for fairly unique reasons) are the two major exceptions. And the same thought process have to be applied when discussing upgrades and caliper choices.

Because all though the rear 'axle' as a component does less of the overall vehicle braking, it's also got substantially smaller hardware in which to do it with, so the rear brakes, more often than not, work just as hard in the back as they do in the front when pushed hard. The biggest mistake people make is neglecting the rear, hitting the hills/track, having the rear fade out without them noticing, and put more pressure on the front, which fade, and then get blamed...

When it comes to pads in particular, there's VERY few applications where we don't recommend running the same pads front and rear. VERY light front wheel drives and Porsches (the later for fairly unique reasons) are the two major exceptions. And the same thought process have to be applied when discussing upgrades and caliper choices.

+1 on all of the above.

Might also add though that a good street setup for me is to try to get a little more bite/bias on the rear.....but there are problems with this setup as you can very quickly run out of talent!blush.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
    • I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?
    • Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
×
×
  • Create New...