Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

Stock setup would probably have been fine - BM50 m/c but I have fitted a GTR one BM57 which will have slightly less travel but require more effort. Auto booster should be fine.

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

i was talking to scott about it.. actually doesnt seem to hard to make one.. maybe we will..

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

Get someone to push on the brake pedal, while you look at the firewall flex behind booster; I reckon it would be a worthwhile addition.

It could likely be done for less; might have to take a look.

Does anyone know if there is any difference between a Stagea Series 2 and a GT-t brake master cylinder.

They list different part numbers but both appear identical and are both BM50's?

I have searched previous posts from Darrin after his GT-t brake upgrade but I haven't found any information on potential differences.

Does anyone know the reason for an early DTV (disk thickness variation) on M35 brakes? Apparently a few people have had this problem already...

Thinking of putting new pads, machine the discs and check that the brake hub is not causing this...

Has anyone done all that and had the problem happening again?

Thanks in advance...

I'm trying to decide whether to replace all my rotors with slotted ones or just get them machined. They've got enough left in them to just get them machined I think, and the rears need it badly. I've got HPX pads sitting here ready to go in, was going to try and do it all at once.

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear,

i did mine & couldn`t tell difference in stock to GTR setup ,

with fronts just get Sloted rotors & braided lines good pads & BRAKESTOPPER,

you spend $300+ on calipers & another $300+ on Rotors ,& still need to pads LINES & brakestopper ,so $10000 on brakes lol.

i spent $500 doing all mine & VERY HAPPY ,

Fully appreciate what you're saying, but I priced up a new caliper and pads and for not much more I've managed to find some R33 GTST brembo discs, ferodo pads(both with about 1000miles use) and good used gtst calipers. I've already got a 330mm front discs conversion and DS2500 pads with R32GTR calipers. I was never expecting a great increase in stopping power from the rears but every bit helps.

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

Pretty sure I sent you the UAS stopper Bob.

I'm looking at getting new disks for my car, rather than seeing if I can machine the standard ones.

Just wondering what other people are running?

GSL supply RDA and DBA rotors, and looking at DBA, probably in either slotted or cross drilled.

Obviously the more you spend the better performance you're going to get, but I think with most things you get to a point where spending more money isn't worthwhile on a road car.

I've always heard that cross drilled rotors are a bad idea for street use, but DBA say this is no longer the case, and they've found the same or increased pad life with their new cross drilled XS rotors.

Like to hear other peoples experiences, although I'm pretty sure any decent slotted rotor will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
    • if need be I guess I will, yeah. Just to be clear, it's okay to use the sill area around the jacking points for loading, meaning the actual pinch weld or jacking point just sits in the slot without taking on any weight?
    • No. No it can't. It will absolutely end badly. There's no need for it, so there's no need to create the risk. Mitigating a risk that didn't need to be there in the first place is even dumber than mitigating a risk that could be engineered out in the first place. And the risk has already been engineered out.
×
×
  • Create New...