Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at the non Akebonos, so I assume they are the touring?

From the pic the calliper mount bolts look a long way apart. Is this what Spoolin needed the adaptors for?

If they r off a z33 then they should bolt up. I didnt know z34 came in anything but 4 pot akebonos...

If they r off a z33 then they should bolt up. I didnt know z34 came in anything but 4 pot akebonos...

These are from a Z34. So then maybe they won't fit then without an adaptor, its not worth the trouble of an adaptor for these brakes IMO.

I think the later Z33 came with a 2 piston single sided calliper but I can't seem to find them anywhere pinch.gif

These seem to be the only option I now have apart from slotted rotors and GSR pads for the stock M35 brakes.

Who has done slotted rotors and GSR pads for stock M35 and found the results?

Edited by slippylotion

These are from a Z34. So then maybe they won't fit then without an adaptor, its not worth the trouble of an adaptor for these brakes IMO.

I think the later Z33 came with a 2 piston single sided calliper but I can't seem to find them anywhere pinch.gif

These seem to be the only option I now have apart from slotted rotors and GSR pads for the stock M35 brakes.

Who has done slotted rotors and GSR pads for stock M35 and found the results?

Both Aaron and bigkev are running slotted rotors with hpx pad I think...

These are from a Z34. So then maybe they won't fit then without an adaptor, its not worth the trouble of an adaptor for these brakes IMO.

I think the later Z33 came with a 2 piston single sided calliper but I can't seem to find them anywhere pinch.gif

These seem to be the only option I now have apart from slotted rotors and GSR pads for the stock M35 brakes.

Who has done slotted rotors and GSR pads for stock M35 and found the results?

There are a lot of people on here, which is why I figured I'd start with that and see how I go.

I haven't fitted mine, still waiting for everything to turn up, but my setup will be:

DBA4000 Clubspec T3 rotors

QFM HPX pads

StopTech braided lines

Motul RBF600 brake fluid

The above kit is a nice bit of gear

Ive been looking at getting a set for my stagea.

If anyone is keen they are pretty damn cheap from the states.

They can be bought for under 1k delivered

Akebono Kit

With such massive brakes on the front end, surely your bias would be a bit off.

Well I got the 33GTST fronts today to fit to the 25G. They are 295 X 30, 2 pot. So they should pull up the Stag when the turbo is fitted.Still sourceing rear sway bar, its RWD, and front strut brace.

Actually they are 4 pot, so they are going on the RS4. Will see how the stock RS4 fit on the 25G.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm looking at upgrading my brake rotors on my Series 2 RS4-S. I want to put front & rear slotted rotors in with some decent pads. I'm keeping the stock calipers as I only use my car as a daily.

What brands/part numbers etc do you recommend oh gurus?

And if anyone could tell me the diameter I need too that would be a bonus.

Cheers!!

I'm looking at upgrading my brake rotors on my Series 2 RS4-S. I want to put front & rear slotted rotors in with some decent pads. I'm keeping the stock calipers as I only use my car as a daily.

What brands/part numbers etc do you recommend oh gurus?

And if anyone could tell me the diameter I need too that would be a bonus.

Cheers!!

Search or read what many have put here :whistling:

as this has been covered many a time :thumbsup:

I'm looking at upgrading my brake rotors on my Series 2 RS4-S. I want to put front & rear slotted rotors in with some decent pads. I'm keeping the stock calipers as I only use my car as a daily.

What brands/part numbers etc do you recommend oh gurus?

Pads are dead simple, I'd go Remsa in the front, which is what we supply as a trade servicing pad for high end Euro sports cars like Porsche, Ferrari etc and are rated to 650 degrees (versus 550 for something like Bendix Ultimate or QFM HPX), and QFM Super X in the rear. Remsa to suit front are $105 for the set, and Super X rears are $49.

Dixcel have direct replacement rotors for our cars (either standard or slotted)...but there are no distributors in Australia. This is according to Dixcel in Japan when I emailed them and ask about who is the distributor in Australia

As previously mentioned in here that you can get DBA rotors and machine the OD to match and fit the standard rotors (unless you've upgraded to R33/R34 rotors and callipers or you own a M35)

I'm looking for a set of Dixcel's locally but it's hard to find them and importing them in is expensive (due to the weight for shipping).

Whilst people in the know have ensured me that machining the OD of the disc is perfectly safe...IMO I don't want to chance it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah good point, it won't flash on indicator that way, so plan B, just another wire to run from under the dash which makes it a bigger job 30 to indicator + globe side 86 tapped into 12v input to flasher relay under the dash (has 12v when indicators on, nothing when no indicators) 87a to headlight parker + 87 to original indicator + chassis side 85 to chassis/earth Now it will flash with indicators and be solid on with parkers
    • FWIW, that's the only colour I'd buy it in
    • I am having issues I believe with the throttle body. The butterflies only open about 1mm on the bench at full throttle. Is this what is supposed to happen? does it use the motor for the rest? I am able to manually open them up the hole way but it sounds like it is on gears.
    • Currently at 380rwkw with 2860 -5's & b cams on e85, trying to make it have a bit more torque/usable power down low.    Ive googled the v cams and most sites say discontinued, is there anywhere you can still get them?
    • Most hardlines are available new still. But unless they're rusted to the point of needing replacement you can just zinc or cadmium plate them to keep them going for decades to come. Regarding the turbo drains it really depends. Braided lines might be better if it's a straighter path than OEM but I would not assume braided teflon lines will never leak. Teflon is a very durable material but you can still abrade, erode, or otherwise compromise its integrity. The return hoses on the bright side are not that hard to access relative to a full turbo removal so if things go wrong you can always put it back to stock. You can very easily drive yourself insane analyzing every little change, or maybe that's just me.
×
×
  • Create New...