Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

God how effing hard is it? Ordered some DB1399's through repco on wednesday said they'd have them thursday but somehow ordered in front pads for the stag... so then ordered them again and DB1144's turn up... Some people can't get anything bloody right.

  • 3 weeks later...

due for front pads for my s2, found bendix now has a listing for them db1696

might be worth adding this to the first post in the thread to make it easier to find

all the c34 and m35 stagea pads can be found on the bendix website here

http://www.bendix.co...an&model=Stagea

I used them in my 180sx and with its weight of only 1250kg, going through the hills it would get severe fade and end up with no brakes at all. They where also dusty as hell.

Put in a set of stock Nissan pads and heaps better compared to bendix ultimates.

i have bendix ultimates. nd i dont get any brake fade through the hills, how ever they do squeal like hell. they are very dusty. only thing i would recommend doing is putting dot 5 brake fluid in if u have dot 4 atm. however i do also have R34 brakes all round. but shouldn't be much difference interms of brake fade.

Well i have DOT 3 in at the moment and is says on the fluid reservoir to use DOT 3 only. I just put some Bendix General CT pads on the front to replace the (worn) stock nissan pads and noticed an immediate improvement in braking performance. They were cheap enough that I can replace them if they fail my expectations but I guess time will tell :thanks:

dot 4 exceeds the requirements for dot3

I've got the remsa pads on the front of mine (with r34 4 pots front and 2 pot rears)a they are lovely, really notice the difference coming from the r31

i have bendix ultimates. nd i dont get any brake fade through the hills, how ever they do squeal like hell. they are very dusty. only thing i would recommend doing is putting dot 5 brake fluid in if u have dot 4 atm. however i do also have R34 brakes all round. but shouldn't be much difference interms of brake fade.

Dot 5 brake fluid should not be used on an abs equipped road car. It is silcone based and quite different from normal brake fluid.

Dot 3 is pretty much obsolete and can be replaced by Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (as opposed to Dot 5).

yea sorry meant DOT 5.1, not DOT 5

That is really retarded. Why wouldn't they give DOT5 a completely different name, instead of having DOT5, which you can't use, and DOT5.1, which you should use? So easy to get confused...

:domokun:

  • 2 weeks later...

Heya guys.. had a half decent read through the thread here but just need confirmation on a cpl things.

I have a s1 stagea with totally crap stock breaks. been offered some r33 gtst 4pots and slotted rotors for cheap.

1.they do bolt straight up.. Ie no need to drill the caliper mounts out larger/sleeve them?

2.stock brake master cylinder is up to the task of operating these 4 pots?

Edit. found the answers i was looking for other than one more question.

Will 33 brakes foul on my standard stagea wheels?

Edited by driftrx

Most sets of 350Z brembos seemed to be around the $600-800 mark when I was looking. Check out Japan then compare to here and the states.

Personally I'd be going the Akebonos if anything. SO sex, and by the time you add up cost of lines, rotors, etc, it doesn't work out too expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
    • I could see someone trying this to save money on oil changes.
×
×
  • Create New...