Stagea Brakes

[66yostagea]

c'mon hugh, you've been around long enough to remember drum brakes

Paul's got it spot on, it is easily accessible once the wheels are off.

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Remember them. My current daily, an MR30, has rear drums. SO THERE>

But have an issue with the 25G brake. It would not release so it is disconnected. Going to reassemble and have a look at adjusting it.:rofl:

[gslrallysport]

Anyone looking for cheap pads/rotors, there's a kit going on eBay at the moment for $155 posted.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-STAGEA-import-M35-Disc-Brake-Rotor-Pad-Pack-/280777240717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415fa0b08d#ht_500wt_1180

No idea about the quality - I imagine not that decent, but if it's enough to get you by until a decent upgrade it's a cheap way of going about it!

I like this part, "Image if for general illustration purposes only, and may not picture the exact parts of this listing." No shit, that's a picture of Renault Clio REAR rotors and pads!

The Bendix pads were just over $100,The RDB $45, and they are a bit better than the Bendix.

You've missed the point, what you paid for them is irrelevant. Both Bendix and those RDB pads are VERY basic cheap trade servicing pads, designed to make workshops as much money as possible. To put it in perspective, those RDB pads we sell for $35, and still make very good % on them! Imagine what they cost to make by the time the manufacturer and importer before us make money on them...

We do both Bendix and RDA, and of the 12-14 (I loose count) brands of pads we do, they'd both be in the bottom half in terms of quality and bang for your buck.

To try and be more helpful, I'd say most of your current problem is because you've put the RDB pads straight on the pad material on the rotor left over from the Bendix. You didn't machine or replace the rotor when you changed pads did you? (Didn't read it anywhere, but you may have just not mentioned it).

Feel free to give us a bell on 1300 884 836 if you'd like to discuss it over the phone (probably easier).

Regards,

Greg

[Daleo]

^^^^^^ Definitely give Greg a call if you need anything; I've bought a bunch of stuff from him and it's been brilliant.

My last order arrived in NSW from QLD in one day!

Step up a little in price on pads, and enjoy the improvement.

[66yostagea]

Just so you understand. I did not buy on price. I got what was available to me quickly. Not living in the 'burbs I have a 100km round trip to get anywhere. And your right, I did not skim the discs when replacing the pads. But also the discs were pristine when the Bendix went on.

[gslrallysport]

Just so you understand. I did not buy on price. I got what was available to me quickly. Not living in the 'burbs I have a 100km round trip to get anywhere.

I appreciate that your options are limited, but the world is a very small place these days.

And your right, I did not skim the discs when replacing the pads. But also the discs were pristine when the Bendix went on.

If the rotors had more than about 50kms of driving on the Bendix pads when you put the RDA pads in, then that's very likely you problem. Pads don't interact with the rotor directly, they interact with a layer of their own material that's been transferred to the rotor (this is why bed in in so important). When you put a pad on a rotor that's previously had another material on it, interact issues are quite frequent. Most notably the pad 'skips' across the face of the rotor, causing the type of noise you're experiencing.

[66yostagea]

Yes. I read about all that. Strangely the RDA pads had a comprehensive set of bedding instructions which I followed. They are getting better each time I get to drive more than a few Ks.

Thank you for your input.

[shane344]

Finished up my R34 brake conversion this afternoon by fitting the rears up.

Went to a reputable brake joint to sort lines out and was a little disappointed, the guy didnt want to look at my car to help out what ends I need on the chassis side.

The R34 rear lines have a weird block swaged onto the line on the caliper end with a socket fo a flare nut on the caliper end which goes to a hard line adaptor.

The C34 rear lines have a banjo bolt on the caliper end with different weird block swaged to the line at the chassis end which goes to the hard line.

I wanted a line made up with the right blocks in the line ends, but I only have one car and couldnt pull everthing apart to slap on the desk in front of the dude, so I bought my jack etc to the brake joint so the dude could come look etc and get the right line made up with the blocks pointing the right way. No luck, not his fault I isuppose but I was hoping...

If I had a spare car or C34 spare soft lines and more time it would've been sweet.

In the end I used a similar method to the front swap, pulled all the adaptors and hard lines off of the caliper, pulled the flare nut stopper out of the caliper and used the stock C34 lines with the Banjo bolt going into the caliper.

I dont like this solution as much as the line is close (10mm) to the front upper control arm (I dont think it will get closer though) but I am pretty certain this will work.

Also suspension movement will put a slight torque moment onto the banjo fitting as the line bends potentially undoing it, the line points probably 10degrees forward of vertical at the back of the caliper....

Please pipe up if you think this solution will result in firey death..

Also if anyone can remember the exact specs of the lines they had made up for their rear R34 fitment, it would be greatly appreciated.

[Duncan]

Well...I did a banjo style conversion about 5 years ago and my fiery death has not yet ocurred. I would however attach the brakeline to the hub to limit that movement, I used the official nissan engineer's brake line holder, AKA cable tie.

[shane344]

Well...I did a banjo style conversion about 5 years ago and my fiery death has not yet ocurred. I would however attach the brakeline to the hub to limit that movement, I used the official nissan engineer's brake line holder, AKA cable tie.

Well thats good news, I also made it to/from work today in one piece, I will keep track of my brake fluid level over the next week for piece of mind.

My lines are too short and point the wrong way to be tied to anything at the moment.

I might see if I can ustilise the brackets that were holding the caliper end of the R34 line's wierd block adaptor for a cable tie perch.

[Duncan]

BTW also worth noting, if it is a small leak leading to loss of fluid, the handbrake warning light will come on because there is a sensor in the master cylinder resovoir

[pomnz]

Ok so now my fecking ABS light has come on WTF!!!! I changed my rear pads and rotors about 300kms ago without issue and had been enjoying the improved braking feel until today when the light popped on while sitting in traffic. I've tried restarting the car several but after about ten seconds there is a soft whirring noise and then the ABS light comes back on and stays on. I've done the fault code thing and the ECU says 0000. Anyone got any ideas? NM35 Stagea. Thanks

[PN-Mad]

Ok so now my fecking ABS light has come on WTF!!!! I changed my rear pads and rotors about 300kms ago without issue and had been enjoying the improved braking feel until today when the light popped on while sitting in traffic. I've tried restarting the car several but after about ten seconds there is a soft whirring noise and then the ABS light comes back on and stays on. I've done the fault code thing and the ECU says 0000. Anyone got any ideas? NM35 Stagea. Thanks

http://engine-codes.com/uploads/nissan/NTB06-009a.pdf

I get U1000 occasional. Do you think this is you?

[pomnz]

http://engine-codes..../NTB06-009a.pdf

I get U1000 occasional. Do you think this is you?

I don't think so I got ten flashes four times in a row I was pretty sure that meant there is no fault code stored? as in 0000?

BTW I love what you've done with your Stagea

Edited March 21, 2012 by pomnz

[PN-Mad]

Fair enough. I know that that U1000 code lodges on the ABS computer, not the ECU.

Maybe have a check of your ABS sensors on the 4 corners. Soft whirring noise would be the ATTESA pump. Really just guessing- but have you checked the fluid in the attesa pump? Is it low? But that would be the 4WD light Alex you numnuts....

Good luck!

Thanks regarding the car- I'm still getting the bugs ironed out.

[66yostagea]

Interesting to see 35's have ABS probs. My S1 25g has had the ABS light on for yonks. I think you may find the whirring noise may be coming from the ABS module. I had to take the fuse out as the noise was there with the key off and out.

[Bodella]

Just had to free off the piston in one of my rear calipers because it was rusty due to a small hole in the dust boot. Anyone know what, if anything is the same as Series 2 rear calipers, so I can find a rebuild kit ? 200sx maybe ?

Obviously the other alternative is R33 gtst rear brake set up, but it's a shame to spend and go to all that trouble when Series 2 rear discs are nearly as big as R33 rears anyway.

Does Anybody know the answer to this ? or if anybody in Australia has stocks of a rebuild kit for the rear - Series 2. Just pulled apart the rears and it looks I like melted the dust boot on the rears at the track last weekend . I have to assume the square seal is gone, so it's rebuild time. I think it 's because I didn't do a proper cool down lap on a couple of sessions. you live an learn.

I will also need to either have a rotor machined or put new ones on. Leaning towards new ones but looking at Japanese import spares website they have standard dixel ones for 240 a pair and I'd rathe try and keep the price down.

I'll call around places tomorrow and see what I can source.

oh and R34gtt fronts are AWESOME!!

[import_zone]

where abouts u located? if ur in adelaide i got a set of rear stagea calipers here u can grab for $75. been off car for a couple of months

[Bodella]

cheers I may need to you take you up on that as I'd like the car for the Easter weekend.

A search on fast come up with this part code. 44120-3H025- and may be shared with other vehicles.

[import_zone]

trying to see if i can find them. all i know is that it was standard brakes of my car. got pads nd rotors as well. can do a deal for all if u want the lot. disc probably need a skim over atleast

[bayslideblue]

I have searched through this thread a few times and have been back and fourth to repco with ill fitting break pads (probably could have done a bit better with research and saved some time), but just for future refernce.....

Bendix doesn't list s2 C34 RS RWD turbo 98-2001 on there website, however the correct pads are;

db1696 front

db1399 rear

Edited April 14, 2012 by bayslideblue