Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is no certain way to just tell if they will fit. You can either take a wheel and fit it on a gtr you find to see if it fits, or lay the brakes down inside the wheel and try that way.

We can't say offset of + 20will fit, because it's mostly about the spoke shape. They will fit over the brakes ok, it's just the spoke clearance you should check.

Good price too.

+1 to alex

nothing to do with offset, all about back space

also, your looking for anything R34 (gtr or gtt)

i got mine through this guy

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Skyline-spares

was really cheap too (compared to what some ppl try and flog them off for (i paid $330 for calipers only)

i got mine through this guy

http://stores.ebay.c.../Skyline-spares

was really cheap too (compared to what some ppl try and flog them off for (i paid $330 for calipers only)

So I guess the $300 I paid for R34 GT-t calipers, pads, clips, shims and an untouched set of rotors is pretty good then... :banana:

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Does anyone upgraded the brake calipers on a NM35?..im looking just doing the front calipers, anything should be better than the standard single pot. Would the R32gts-t 4pot a straight bolt on? and would my standard rims fits? Theres alot of threads for brake upgrades on early Stageas but not much on later series2 NM35's. Cheers guys.

dont know about the GTSt brakes, but GTR brakes through the range bolt on. Some need collars on the bolts . cant remember which.

no, standard wheels will NOT fit on after an upgrade, except AXIS rims. and yes i have seen R32 GTR brakes under AXIS rims.

Pretty sure the consensus is that m35's have 14mm bolts like r34's so I'd go that way

Stock r34 gtt brakes are 310mm x 30mm

Gtr brakes will be slightly bigger at 324mm x 32mm but cost a fair bit more

Pretty sure the consensus is that m35's have 14mm bolts like r34's so I'd go that way

Stock r34 gtt brakes are 310mm x 30mm

Gtr brakes will be slightly bigger at 324mm x 32mm but cost a fair bit more

Brembo rotors are 324mm x 30mm, not 32mm.

The only Skyline rotor that is 32mm wide is the R32 GTR with Sumitomo calipers (296mm x 32mm). You need to go to the Akebono 355mm rotor to get a 32mm wide rotor.

That's why I abandoned my original plans & went looking for R34 GT-t brakes.

For a daily driver; I couldn't see the benefit of spending a shiteload of cash to buy rotors that I then had to modify anyway, just for a few extra mm of dia.

I'm sure the Brembo's are pretty special; but for the dollars, they'd want to be.

@Daleo,

Hi, did you just upgraded the calipers from an r34gt-t? Im hoping just to do the same, dont want to spend too much on an upgrade.

What are you planning on doing with the car? If it's just going to be a road car, plenty of us are happy with slotted rotors and decent pads. My brakes didn't give up at Mallala last time I was out.

@Daleo,

Hi, did you just upgraded the calipers from an r34gt-t? Im hoping just to do the same, dont want to spend too much on an upgrade.

Yep, not fitted yet; being stripped, coated & rebuilt atm.

Definitely one of the easiest bolt on upgrade without the expense of going Brembo.

Look around, it might take a while, but they come up cheap from time to time.

Well im not planning on turning the car into a racecar, it will be just a daily driven car. I felt the front calipers needing a little bit of beef, rather than a single pot. Its just me not wanting to spend too much on big brand names.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...