Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

1. Return shitty pads

2. Order remsa pads from GSLRallysports (sp?)

3. Fit remsa pads

4. ?????????

5. Profit

Yeah I took them back, turned out to be bloody 200sx pads or some shit... Just gonna order some cheapy QFM ones from gsl

Remsa is only $10 more than the qfm hpx and are supposed to be a bit better again

Either way you can't go wrong

Dust?

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

Ah. I remember when I had white wheels.

But alas, that was two weeks ago, when I last washed it.

  • 3 weeks later...

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shield. Cut accordingly.

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shieldy. Cut accordingly.

Yeah I rotated the rotor and it scored the dust shield nicely so i can cut nicely around it. The new rotor will also need to be skimmed before it gets fitted on. The r34 back ID rotor is alot shallower compare to the stagea rotors. It just Im not sure how much is needed to grind off the knucke. Will it weaken it? It seems ARX-four maybe has a different offsets or knuckle/hub assembly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the cam timing is set to something stupid at low RPM?
    • Hi guys, Sorry to butt in and take it slightly off course, although still on the VCAM subject.  I had VCAM put into my Tomei 2.8 bottom end and I struggle to take off because the engine has very little torque caused by VERY low dynamic compression at 60psi. But once off the mark and especially on boost, the engine rev happily all the way to 8000rpm and makes 630hp at 20psi of boost on E85 at the rear hubs. Has anyone had any similar experience or any suggestions on what might cause this low compression at low rpm? I am in the process of converting it into a 8hp transmission and with this low torque, the engine would not even stay running until the throttle is opened to more than 30% and then I loose all vacuum. 
    • Last year I got a set of MCA street coilovers for my turbo Forester after my son hitting a concrete gutter/wall on a small bridge causing the whole drivers side suspension to get bent because the rain just made the car slide out I love them, I think they were $2400. even had a hiccup of have the wrong hub configuration (my fault) so got onto MCA and they sent the correct shock ends overnight parts from QLD, for free!  I was very impressed with their customer service and quality of the product  
    • They've had some weird failures on their brake actuators. One of them was because they added some kind of lubricant to the factory fill brake fluid that aftermarket brake fluid didn't have so it would affect the seals. Another was just mysterious, probably internal corrosion or something eating away at Prius brake actuators. Parts alone for those are a few thousand USD so not a cheap fix.
×
×
  • Create New...