Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes


Recommended Posts

cheers lads! went with the 34 setup ($250 for callipers and pads), just need some rotors now.. i am rather lazy right at this point in time do i need to mess around with lines?? ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers lads! went with the 34 setup ($250 for callipers and pads), just need some rotors now.. i am rather lazy right at this point in time do i need to mess around with lines?? ;)

No, I have r34 front and back using the standard stag lines, the rears needed some different clips to attach but not sure exactly as it was done for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go the 34 brakes on a s2 if you can

Someone asked about gtr rears, should be fine but you'll probably need tin snips to trim the backing plate/dust shield

thanks for that, anyone have any insight into upgrading the master cylinder going from stock s1 brakes, to 33 brembos?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't tried that exact swap, but would not expect you need to change cylinders

I've run 33 gtr and g4 8 spots on my gtr without any bias issues. I've run 32 gtr and g4 8 spots on my stagea without any bias issues.

In the end, it is the total piston area that matters, the 32 and 33 gtr have about the same size pistons, the 8 spots have 8 very small pistons, and the stagea has 1 very large piston. you could always calculate the areas but I think you won't have an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't tried that exact swap, but would not expect you need to change cylinders

I've run 33 gtr and g4 8 spots on my gtr without any bias issues. I've run 32 gtr and g4 8 spots on my stagea without any bias issues.

In the end, it is the total piston area that matters, the 32 and 33 gtr have about the same size pistons, the 8 spots have 8 very small pistons, and the stagea has 1 very large piston. you could always calculate the areas but I think you won't have an issue.

awesome, thanks heaps mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed my S1 brakes to GTT brakes with no issues. Later I put R32GTR brakes on the rear (essentially the same as GTT) and 330mm D2s on the front. I then put a BM57 master cylinder on which just means that with a larger area there is less pedal travel but more effort required. It would probably have been fine without the change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed my S1 brakes to GTT brakes with no issues. Later I put R32GTR brakes on the rear (essentially the same as GTT) and 330mm D2s on the front. I then put a BM57 master cylinder on which just means that with a larger area there is less pedal travel but more effort required. It would probably have been fine without the change.

sweet, if i have any issues with it, ill swap it out, but i figured it would be fine, just wanted to check with knowledgeable people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct me if i'm wrong, but from what i have read online, 34 and 33 brembos are the same, and therefore gtr34 brembos should bolt up to my s1 all the same?

Edit: will a 324mm rear rotor and caliper off the later model gtr34's bolt up the same? or will i need dogbones to suit the bigger rotor?

Edited by HousewifE
Link to comment
Share on other sites

trying to be a tightass and avoid spending 450 on dixcel rotors i spent 600 instead! :wacko:

250 - r34 gtt front callipers

80 - rotors and machining

130 - shim kit from nissan

140 - hpx pads and 1L brake fluid

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to be a pain guys, I've read through countless pages of what Rotors will suit the S2 C34. From what I've gathered, the 34 GTT rotors are a direct fit, but I'm looking at going for some slotted rotors. I've read that shaving down the OD of DBA brakes for the 32GTR and 33GTST will work, but that information was posted a few years ago. Does anyone know of any direct replacement slotted disks for the S2?

Again sorry to be a pain, I need to get them replaced ASAP.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So next year I am looking at upgrading from my VE SS bomadore ute to something more refined.  I wanted to stick with a V8 but not anything German or Australian, either a coupe or a sedan. So if I wanted anything newish that limited my options to either the Lexus RCF which I quite like. But with the price they demand and a kid on the way a 2 door coupe is probably not going to be the best idea. The next best thing would be the ISF but the newest models are 2014 and commanding over 60k and even the older 2008 models in ok condition starting around 35k is kind of bullshit. So I figured if I could not have the noise I could perhaps make do with easy power. Enter the infinity Q50 or Skyline equivalent. The price difference between the 300 and 400hp models seems a bit crazy. Right now there is 300hp Q50 one on carsales from a dealer with 61km for 27k drive away. If I wanted to get a 400hp Red or 400R car the prices seem to start at 43k From my limited research it seems that the only differences are that the 400r/Red Red runs more boost and a more aggressive tune. There are are turbine speed sensors on the turbos. Has 2 pumps for the water to air intercooler. Runs an engine oil cooler. I'm guessing that the exterior trims might look a little more sporty as well. I had a lazy look for upgrades to bridge the gap on z1motorsports They have kits that upgrade the water to air heat exchanger as well as the coolant pump which should give a non Red/400r better intercooling temps than the stock Red/400r. I added an engine oil cooler with a thermostat as well to try and make things as close as possible. Obviously the ECU is going to need a tickle. Having not done much in the way of research they also sell a ECU flashing tool with pre loaded tunes that are supposed to boost the non Red/400R by 100hp which adds 1k USD to the cost. The total cost of the parts @ the current time including shipping and taxes worked out to be $4350 AUD. Personally I would rather get the car tuned on a dyno which would probably add more cost Assuming the worst that you got a workshop to install the new parts I would guess no more than 5 hours would be required in the worst case @ 5 x $150 per hour = $750 So the total cost could be around $5100 So for easy number 5k + 27K = 32k I guess that would leave some change left over to swap out the open diff and fit a LSD Any thoughts?      
    • Right, not sure why I thought it to be a lean spike. It might be fixable with modern card-style hot film MAFs which have some design features to avoid counting reversion flow but I've never tried it myself.
    • I did not realise this, I'll contribute more and earn my stripes and retry later. 
    • I'm only going to hassle you for posting links to images. It's against my policy to click links that could be some nasty payload. Sadly, you need to make 9 more posts before you can just stick the images directly in a post, unless @PranK sees this and bends the rule for you.
    • Hello,new to the group, I bought a R32 from auction recently, wondering if anyone knows the cars history, seems to have the usual go fast bits on it, plan is to do an engine swap- add 2 extra cylinders and 1 extra turbo. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i4rjmlzubjbwjtguh6f4s/IMG20241011140744.jpg?rlkey=q0lumm251377vknbqktfwrycq&st=7scvwx4e&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ro24qmwzlczzlfsr4y05x/Screenshot_2024-10-10-10-49-23-90_9a2f5bb2149dae94cd1e190effc09b33.jpg?rlkey=oyguh26ttshlf04ccp48odf4v&st=xloae97b&dl=0   New to forums and posting pics, if links don't work, take it easy on me, 42yrs old and I tune carburettors!!  
×
×
  • Create New...