Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cheers lads! went with the 34 setup ($250 for callipers and pads), just need some rotors now.. i am rather lazy right at this point in time do i need to mess around with lines?? ;)

No, I have r34 front and back using the standard stag lines, the rears needed some different clips to attach but not sure exactly as it was done for me.

Go the 34 brakes on a s2 if you can

Someone asked about gtr rears, should be fine but you'll probably need tin snips to trim the backing plate/dust shield

thanks for that, anyone have any insight into upgrading the master cylinder going from stock s1 brakes, to 33 brembos?

I haven't tried that exact swap, but would not expect you need to change cylinders

I've run 33 gtr and g4 8 spots on my gtr without any bias issues. I've run 32 gtr and g4 8 spots on my stagea without any bias issues.

In the end, it is the total piston area that matters, the 32 and 33 gtr have about the same size pistons, the 8 spots have 8 very small pistons, and the stagea has 1 very large piston. you could always calculate the areas but I think you won't have an issue.

I haven't tried that exact swap, but would not expect you need to change cylinders

I've run 33 gtr and g4 8 spots on my gtr without any bias issues. I've run 32 gtr and g4 8 spots on my stagea without any bias issues.

In the end, it is the total piston area that matters, the 32 and 33 gtr have about the same size pistons, the 8 spots have 8 very small pistons, and the stagea has 1 very large piston. you could always calculate the areas but I think you won't have an issue.

awesome, thanks heaps mate.

I changed my S1 brakes to GTT brakes with no issues. Later I put R32GTR brakes on the rear (essentially the same as GTT) and 330mm D2s on the front. I then put a BM57 master cylinder on which just means that with a larger area there is less pedal travel but more effort required. It would probably have been fine without the change.

I changed my S1 brakes to GTT brakes with no issues. Later I put R32GTR brakes on the rear (essentially the same as GTT) and 330mm D2s on the front. I then put a BM57 master cylinder on which just means that with a larger area there is less pedal travel but more effort required. It would probably have been fine without the change.

sweet, if i have any issues with it, ill swap it out, but i figured it would be fine, just wanted to check with knowledgeable people.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but from what i have read online, 34 and 33 brembos are the same, and therefore gtr34 brembos should bolt up to my s1 all the same?

Edit: will a 324mm rear rotor and caliper off the later model gtr34's bolt up the same? or will i need dogbones to suit the bigger rotor?

Edited by HousewifE

trying to be a tightass and avoid spending 450 on dixcel rotors i spent 600 instead! :wacko:

250 - r34 gtt front callipers

80 - rotors and machining

130 - shim kit from nissan

140 - hpx pads and 1L brake fluid

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry to be a pain guys, I've read through countless pages of what Rotors will suit the S2 C34. From what I've gathered, the 34 GTT rotors are a direct fit, but I'm looking at going for some slotted rotors. I've read that shaving down the OD of DBA brakes for the 32GTR and 33GTST will work, but that information was posted a few years ago. Does anyone know of any direct replacement slotted disks for the S2?

Again sorry to be a pain, I need to get them replaced ASAP.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...