Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will be doing this, possibly this weekend or next. Hoping the stock 18 inch autech axis wheels clear the caliper. Otherwise spacers will become my best friend.

I believe that the DO fit behind the stock AXIS rims.

The double flare seat..is this the olive in the brake line connection point in the calliper? I threaded a screw into the olive to pull it out. Sounds the same as the R33 GTST calliper install but without the hassle of bolt spacers.

Sounds like the best bang for buck.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I have 20"s so clearance is not a problem =)

Spot on; that's exactly how I pulled mine out too.

It's a doddle to get them on, and easily the best bang for buck brake upgrade.

  • Like 1

Weird how R33 GTS-T brakes are an upgrade for Stagea..

From a car that's 400 kg lighter.

What am I missing ?

From memory R33 stock rotors were tiny as..

just the fronts;

c34's are 280 twin piston.

32gtst are 280 quad piston.

33gtst are 296 quad piston.

34gtt are 310 quad piston.

32gtr non vspec are 296 quad piston.

32/33gtr are 324 quad piston.

its kind of odd they didn't come with better brakes, but they aren't a performance car so they didn't need anything special.

So, are 34 gtt calipers the same as 33 gtst apart from the 14mm mounting bolts?

I'm assuming you don't need to trim the backing plate with the 33 gtst rotors.

No; the mounting legs are longer to accommodate the 310x30mm Rotor, as opposed to the 296x30mm Rotor from the R33GTS-t

  • Like 1

For info.

M35 front

296x24mm

R34 GTT

310x30mm

So a huge difference in warp resistance as well as increase braking force.

Exactly.

Not necessarily a huge step up in braking depending on the pads; but a huge step up in pedal feel (stiffer caliper) and repeatability.

Great step up withouy having to swap out the bmc

Pretty sure that even the old (now discontinued) AP Racing 8 pot front and 6 pot rear kit did not require a change to the BMC.

Edited by iamhe77

Pedal is defiantly softer than previously so there is certainly a Caliper volume difference which would now equate to more rear bias.

Glad to see these gone

post-49288-1453616384026_thumb.jpg

Clearance is only 3-4 mm to the rim. Only thing that will prob snag people. I peeled the dust cover off like opening a can

post-49288-14536164755087_thumb.jpg

Matt

  • Like 1

I think you had better bleed the calliper again. Did you clamp the line at the calliper before removing the banjo? Otherwise it's a pain to rebleed the abs.

It took me hours to bleed the last set of Brembo's I fitted, mainly as they were rebuilt which means there was no fluid around the piston. It can take a few decent pot holes to get the air from around the pistons to escape. Sometimes I tap the callipers with a soft hammer to release the bubbles.

If it's spongy then likely it has air in the system still.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...