Stagea Brakes

[dmonic1]

they might possibly be R32 gtst front discs or off an N/A 33

[QWK32]

yeah, after reading your post darrin i got abit sus to that rotor, i knew it didn't look right. so i checked the specs of it. only 280mm diameter. i have some r32 GTST rotors here and checked it against them. nope not them either. so i dug up the receipt for them and off to the wreakers.

when i got down there i explained to the guy what i've found. we got another R33 GTST front rotor and the one i had was heaps different. we checked all the dimensions and the closest match to it was the front rotor off a R33 GTS4, but they have 4 stud and this one has 5. the wreakers best guess was that it is off a non-turbo stagea? anyway....... in the end i left with a proper R33 GTST rotor.

just got home and trial fitted it. PERFECT FIT! the caliper now sits perfectly to the rotor without spacing it off the hub. the rotor doesn't foul on anything. the only thing is the mounting bolts, i will have to get longer bolts and make a bush to center it in the hole. and the brake line, which i will try what darrin said about removing the flared bit from the caliper hole and i'm sure the stagea line will fit without a problem.

here are some more pics, you can see the stagea caliper propped up on bricks in the background. i didn't feel like removing it and bleeding the brakes again today.

and the difference in the rotor sizes, the stagea on the right and the R33 on the left

Edited January 15, 2009 by QWK32

[RS4StagMan]

Has anyone got a spare or used set of S2 pads I can purchase off them? If I can get my hands on a set, I can get them laser cut, then get QFM to turn them into pads, all I'd need to know is what the original pad thicknesses are. Pricing on custom pads like this (in any quantity) is $110 for HPX (Bendix Ultimate type equivalent pad), or $149 for A1RM (Ferodo DS2500 type equivalent pad). For more info on those pad materials, checkout http://www.qfmperformance.com

Side bar: We've got DB1144's in A1RM compound to suit the rear of S1 on the shelf, $119.

Also, if someone can send me an old set of DB1250/1398 I can get the S1 front's made up for the same price as the S2 pads.

If anyone can help, feel free to PM me, or give me a bell on 1300 884 836. If there's enough interest I can certainly look at doing a group buy, and that will also help cut down on the price of the donor pads if I have to purchase them new from overseas.

Cheers,

Greg

I would love to be able to supply my Series 2 pads as prototypes so that you can make the copies, however I can't have the car off the road at all as it is my daily drive!

Anybody out there with spare (worn) Series 2 pads to supply to Greg? He is willing to supply the brand new set free!

This may be the start of the 'Solution to the Problem' for Series 2 owners including a Group Buy!

The front pads on the Series 2's are what we can't get here locally in a Bendix or anything else, with the backs a little easier to get (generic Bendix code 1399).

Last time I checked with Nissan they wanted about $190/pair front or back with 2 week wait from Japan.

[chuckie]

I would love to be able to supply my Series 2 pads as prototypes so that you can make the copies, however I can't have the car off the road at all as it is my daily drive!

Anybody out there with spare (worn) Series 2 pads to supply to Greg? He is willing to supply the brand new set free!

This may be the start of the 'Solution to the Problem' for Series 2 owners including a Group Buy!

The front pads on the Series 2's are what we can't get here locally in a Bendix or anything else, with the backs a little easier to get (generic Bendix code 1399).

Last time I checked with Nissan they wanted about $190/pair front or back with 2 week wait from Japan.

WELL MAY BE YOU SHOULD SEND PM TO PERTH, AS WE CAN GET PAD`S OFF SHELF FOR $80. SO WHAT IS THE PROBLEM.AGAIN YOU ASK IF SOMEONE WILL HELP YOU , IT`S NOT TO HARD BUT AGAIN MAY BE I PUT POST UP TO HELP YOU GUY`S OUT IF IT`S NO GOOD TO YOU I WILL STOP LOOKING FOR BIT`S & LET YOU ALL CARRY ON WITH YOUR PROBLEM , GOOD LUCK cheer`s chuckie.

[pintaline]

i have some..... you can have them for free if i can have a full set of front R33gtst pads in return......?

D.

[StageaTypeS]

Hey all just thought I would add my thoughts after doing a R33 brake swap.

My swap consisted of -

New RDA rotors all round

Freshly rebuilt front and rear calipers.

EBC redstuff Brake pads all around

The swap is pretty straight forward but you need to consider the following. The bolt holes in the R33 caliper and the mounting bracket on the S2 Stag are different sizes. To solve this and please don't shoot the messenger as I am not in any mechanical and I had all this work done for me.

I believe my mechanic took a large diameter bolt (M12 possibly can't remember) and then machined down half of it and rethreaded it so that the caliper and bracket could be bolted together. Seems to work anyhow and the calipers still on there

Had to remove the brass nipple inside the caliper. Just screwed a screw into this and then used a set of pliers and the nipple just pulls out no problems.

The rear brake lines are quite short they only just reach the R33 rear calipers as they bolt up to a different spot to the original calipers. Seem to be OK though.

My first impressions of the brakes wasn't great, there is certainly more pedal travel I think than with the original brake setup. But saying that now I am used to it I kind of like the travel as you can be more precise when braking. But the travel has no impact on abrupt stopping because when I stomp on the brake pedal it stops bloody quick.

Also I don't know if anyone else is using EBC Redstuff pads but I wouldn't recommend them. My car squeaks like buggery everywhere unless the pads are really warm. I should have gone for more street style pads as these ones I think are probably better suited for track days and such, just my opinion anyways.

Next thing I am going to do is look at a set of braided lines i have heard that they give a good result. I think I read on here somewhere that Maltech make a set for the Stagea. Has anyone used these or can anyone recommend a good supplier of Braided lines for the Stag?

Cheers

Justin

[KiwiRS4T]

Hey all just thought I would add my thoughts after doing a R33 brake swap.

My swap consisted of -

New RDA rotors all round

Freshly rebuilt front and rear calipers.

EBC redstuff Brake pads all around

The swap is pretty straight forward but you need to consider the following. The bolt holes in the R33 caliper and the mounting bracket on the S2 Stag are different sizes. To solve this and please don't shoot the messenger as I am not in any mechanical and I had all this work done for me.

I believe my mechanic took a large diameter bolt (M12 possibly can't remember) and then machined down half of it and rethreaded it so that the caliper and bracket could be bolted together. Seems to work anyhow and the calipers still on there

Had to remove the brass nipple inside the caliper. Just screwed a screw into this and then used a set of pliers and the nipple just pulls out no problems.

The rear brake lines are quite short they only just reach the R33 rear calipers as they bolt up to a different spot to the original calipers. Seem to be OK though.

My first impressions of the brakes wasn't great, there is certainly more pedal travel I think than with the original brake setup. But saying that now I am used to it I kind of like the travel as you can be more precise when braking. But the travel has no impact on abrupt stopping because when I stomp on the brake pedal it stops bloody quick.

Also I don't know if anyone else is using EBC Redstuff pads but I wouldn't recommend them. My car squeaks like buggery everywhere unless the pads are really warm. I should have gone for more street style pads as these ones I think are probably better suited for track days and such, just my opinion anyways.

Next thing I am going to do is look at a set of braided lines i have heard that they give a good result. I think I read on here somewhere that Maltech make a set for the Stagea. Has anyone used these or can anyone recommend a good supplier of Braided lines for the Stag?

Cheers

Justin

I bought a set of maltech lines for my Series 1 but they were too short to fit properly on the brackets. They do work however - just had to fiddle with mounts. It would be good if someone could send their existing lines in as a pattern.

[BensDR30]

Hey all just thought I would add my thoughts after doing a R33 brake swap.

My swap consisted of -

New RDA rotors all round

Freshly rebuilt front and rear calipers.

EBC redstuff Brake pads all around

'Red stuff' are the full race pad - 'Green stuff' are the intermediates (I have them on the front of my DR30), and 'Black Stuff' are the most 'street' oriented compound (I have them on the rear of my DR30).

I would suggest that you have gone a bit overboard with your pad selection.

Edited January 16, 2009 by BensDR30

[EvoMitchy]

I have a series 2 RS4 AWD

I have used R34GTT front and rear calipers, disks and bolts. All bolted up perfect with NO mods needed.

The disk to caliper offsets were perfect, no need to fit spacers. Bolts were the right length and diameter.

R34 disks are 310mm, R33 are 297mm. The bigger R34 disks cleared the front backing plates, no need to trim

The only mods were the the brake hoses.

For the front I used the complete stagea banjo bolt and lines. As QWK32 mentioned, the banjo bolt is approx 2-3mm too long. I machined down the length so it did not bottom out in the caliper. There was still plenty of thread left on the banjo bolt so it does not strip the caliper thread. The other option is to remove the caliper flange nut SEAT in the bottom of the caliper, but I preferred to keep the calipers standard.

For the rear brake lines, I used the R34 complete brake line that goes from the caliper to where the flex line mounts to the stagea metal hard line on the body of the car. R33 rear brakes are the same as R34.

When mounting the rear calipers, they foul the metal backing plate. You need to trim 5-10mm of the backing plates to suit the new calipers.

thanks for clearing it up Darrin- lots of speculation in this thread, and it doesnt help when every sub varient uses different brakes lol

Question- Will Brembo's bolt up direct to a S2 RS4? R33/R34 identical? Will master cylinder require upgrading, or will stock item do the same job?

Mods- Anyway of cleaning up this thread? Or creating a new thread with pure facts from this thread?

Cheers,

Mitch

[RS4StagMan]

For all Series 2 Stagea Owners, that may be interested, as suggested by SK a while back, I have found both a US supplier and local supplier of the lucrative FRONT brake pads (HAWK).

1. From the US

Lining Number: 7766, FMSI Number: D888, Hawk Number: HB387, Pad Thickness: 0.547", Compound: HPS

Front Brake Pads for: 2004-03 Infiniti M45, 2004-02 Infiniti Q45

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/Merchant2..._Code=HB387-547

2. Local Hawk supplier in NSW- V Sport Sydney

V-Sport Sydney

Unit 3, 19 Penny Place

Arndell Park NSW 2148

P: +61 2 9679 8644

F: +61 2 9679 8655

M: 0437 VSPORT (877 678)

W: www.vsport.com.au

E: [email protected]

I emailed them and this is the response I got from Tony Dunn;

" I have looked into this and from the specifications found your Stagea S2 is supposed to have HB387 on the front and HB437 on the rear.

Our price for the HB387F and HB437F pads is $140/set plus $12 postage, these are not in stock and would need to be ordered in from the US approx 2 weeks for delivery.

Best Regards,

Tony Dunn"

The total cost delivered was about the same from the US or from the local supplier- I would deal with the local guy for peace of mind, but note the 2 week delivery required from the US. The fitment has also been confirmed by V Sport for the Stagea Series 2......

Front Series 2 4WD Brake Pads

I didn't realise that I did this a while back.

I will email them again to confirm availablity and pricing. V-sport also now have offices in VIC and QLD as well. www.vsport.com.au

Around $140 pair for front sounds good to me for a reasonable quality pad.

Hawk HB387 fronts also fit the following US spec cars;

Application(s):

2008-2008 Infiniti EX35 Journey 3.5L - Front

2008-2008 Infiniti EX35 3.5L - Front

2006-2006 Infiniti FX35 3.5L Made On or After 11-1-05 - Front

2007-2008 Infiniti FX35 3.5L - Front

2006-2006 Infiniti FX45 4.5L Made On or After 11-1-05 - Front

2007-2008 Infiniti FX45 4.5L - Front

2005-2006 Infiniti G35 3.5L RWD - Front

2007-2007 Infiniti G35 3.5L Except Sport Models - Front

2008-2008 Infiniti G35 3.5L Except Sport Models - Front

2006-2007 Infiniti M35 Sport 3.5L - Front

2006-2007 Infiniti M35 X 3.5L - Front

2006-2008 Infiniti M35 3.5L - Front

2006-2007 Infiniti M45 Sport 4.5L - Front

2003-2004 Infiniti M45 4.5L - Front

2006-2008 Infiniti M45 4.5L - Front

2002-2005 Infiniti Q45 4.5L - Front

2006-2006 Infiniti Q45 4.5L - Front

2004-2008 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast 3.5L w/o Brembo brakes. w/o 18 In. Wheels - Front

2004-2008 Nissan 350Z Grand Touring 3.5L w/o Brembo brakes. w/o 18 In. Wheels - Front

2004-2008 Nissan 350Z Touring 3.5L w/o Brembo brakes. w/o 18 In. Wheels - Front

2004-2008 Nissan 350Z Track 3.5L w/o Brembo brakes. w/o 18 In. Wheels - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4.0L - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder LE 5.6L - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder S 4.0L - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4.0L - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder SE 5.6L - Front

2008-2008 Nissan Pathfinder SE Off-Road 4.0L - Front

[gslrallysport]

i have some..... you can have them for free if i can have a full set of front R33gtst pads in return......?

Front and rear, or just fronts? Either way DEAL!!! I'll pm you our address and details etc.

Cheers,

Greg

[gslrallysport]

Around $140 pair for front sounds good to me for a reasonable quality pad.

Hawk HB387 fronts also fit the following US spec cars

Is that the HPS pad? They're a decent quality pad, but hardly a performance pad unfortunately. They're only good for about 450 degrees, and they're not recommended for track or hard street use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when that temp is exceeded.

[gslrallysport]

'Red stuff' are the full race pad

Red's are no where near a full race pad. Their friction levels are WAYYYY too low to be anywhere near a full race (or even weekend track) pad. Red Stuff is a fast street pad at best. Alot of people use them at the track because they will handle some good temperature, but their friction levels unfortunately handicap any sort of serious performance. It's not until you get into EBC Yellow or Blue stuff that you're talking about full race pads.

[RS4StagMan]

Is that the HPS pad? They're a decent quality pad, but hardly a performance pad unfortunately. They're only good for about 450 degrees, and they're not recommended for track or hard street use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when that temp is exceeded.

Correct- in a "HPS" Compound is what they originally quoted me for as per above.

[RS4StagMan]

Front and rear, or just fronts? Either way DEAL!!! I'll pm you our address and details etc.

Cheers,

Greg

I can hold off sourcing my front pads for the series 2 elsewhere, if I know an approximate ETA on the QFM pads in HPX compound.

How long from time you recieve the prototypes could you supply a finished workable set? Pricing will be about $110 a pair???

[RS4StagMan]

Is that the HPS pad? They're a decent quality pad, but hardly a performance pad unfortunately. They're only good for about 450 degrees, and they're not recommended for track or hard street use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when that temp is exceeded.

I see the QFM's have a better temperature working range.

HP-X Compound 0-550 degress C

A1RM Compound 0-780 degrees C

http://gslrallysport.com/shop/index.php?ma...60e8b648ef3fdd7

[DaveB]

I have a series 2 RS4 AWD

I have used R34GTT front and rear calipers, disks and bolts. All bolted up perfect with NO mods needed.

The disk to caliper offsets were perfect, no need to fit spacers. Bolts were the right length and diameter.

R34 disks are 310mm, R33 are 297mm. The bigger R34 disks cleared the front backing plates, no need to trim

The only mods were the the brake hoses.

For the front I used the complete stagea banjo bolt and lines. As QWK32 mentioned, the banjo bolt is approx 2-3mm too long. I machined down the length so it did not bottom out in the caliper. There was still plenty of thread left on the banjo bolt so it does not strip the caliper thread. The other option is to remove the caliper flange nut SEAT in the bottom of the caliper, but I preferred to keep the calipers standard.

For the rear brake lines, I used the R34 complete brake line that goes from the caliper to where the flex line mounts to the stagea metal hard line on the body of the car. R33 rear brakes are the same as R34.

When mounting the rear calipers, they foul the metal backing plate. You need to trim 5-10mm of the backing plates to suit the new calipers.

If you have a series 2 RWD, the front brakes are DIFFERENT to the AWD stagea.

I have tried fitting my R34 brakes to Greenghosts RWD stagea and they did not fit.

Can not confirm the exact details, but from memory the mounting hoses in the front hubs were to suit 12mm bolts, not the 14mm. Pretty sure this is where you can use R33 calipers etc. Best talk to Greenghost

The rear brakes on the RWD where the same as the AWD stagea, so the R34/R33 parts will fit.

The R32, R33 and R34 are all monoblac design and do not slide.

As for wheel clearance, I am using r34 GTR wheels so there there is heaps of clearance, but I am pretty sure CHOOK is using R34 calipers with standard 16" stagea wheels with enough caliper clearance. Best check, otherwise you will be up new wheels as well.

Hopefully this will clear some questions.

First pic is a series 1 stagea caliper with banjo bolt

The other pic is a r34 caliper (red one) with the flare nut. You can see the flare nut seat in the bottom of the caliper thread which is pressed in. I believe you can remove the seat by screwing in a screw and pull the seat out.

Awesome, thanks man! Just what I was after. I think this is the way I will go if I upgrade brakes; R34 all around (though I might not think so when I see the price of 2nd hand R34 brakes and rebuilding costs ). I will use either R34 braided lines, if they will fit, or else get custom lines made. I hate banjos!!

[gslrallysport]

I can hold off sourcing my front pads for the series 2 elsewhere, if I know an approximate ETA on the QFM pads in HPX compound.

How long from time you recieve the prototypes could you supply a finished workable set? Pricing will be about $110 a pair???

From us getting the pads to shipping the finished product off can be up to 3 months. QFM's wait on manufacture of normal pads at the moment is about 2 months, so a month is enough for us to get them laser cut and sent away.

ALSO, I'm tee'ing up with a US pad manufacturer to supply backing plates only to us for both front or rear. That will speed the process up a bit, but will be dependent on price. They're going to let me know later today!

[RS4StagMan]

V Sport - Sydney emailed me today to confirm that they have the Series 2 Stagea FRONT pads in stock - $161 + $12 Delivery.

Hawk HPS Compound

Model HB387

Lining Number 7766

FMSI Number D888

US application chart as per above.

www.vsport.com.au

http://www.fujibrake.co.jp/pads/fblpad_e.php?fblno=AFP385S

The rear Series 2 pads are Bendix generic number 1399 (US spec J30 Infinity 1993-1997)

http://www.bendix.com.au/ReverseLookup.aspx?SetRefNo=db1399

Hope this helps someone.

Edited January 22, 2009 by RS4StagMan

[RS4StagMan]

See here for alternative Series 2 Brake pads available now in Australia from Ausbrake/QFM- About $85 per FRONT set.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...Br-t253995.html

Hope this helps as I had a great deal of trouble sourcing them locally, but now are available usually within stock from Ausbrake/QFM dealers.