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how much did you machine it down?

keep us posted on how it goes :down:

I had them machined down by 6mm (3mm metal removed), so that they match stock size (290mm). I *wish* they had've worked for me without machining down... that was a bad night. Spent ages fitting them and then went for a drive down the road only to find they were binding and started smoking and subsequently had to swap them again. See my post here for pic's of the scoring on the edges where they were rubbing on the caliper.

Actually those rub marks came in handy, apparently the brake guy used them as a guide to machine them down :) Now they fit and work great; no binding, smoking or even squeeking - FINALLY I've got some nice new rotors which aren't warped (and are slotted).

EDIT: Brake guy was pretty keen to warn me about the dangers of running thinner rotors. Obviously the piston travel is greater, and if you let your rotors and pads get too thin then the pistons will pop out of the caliper or jam in the bores (no brakes or locked front wheel/s).

However, I believe these rotors will be OK as long as I don't let them wear too much (which shouldn't be a problem as I don't think even my stock rotors had worn appreciably). My reasoning is because the minimum thickness of the stock rotor and the 954S differ by about 4mm (from memory) and the 954S rotor is 2mm thinner when new (from memory; I think it's something like 30mm vs 32mm stock rotor). Therefore I should have at least 2mm of rotor to wear, to stay within rated spec's (before the new rotors become thinner than the minimum thickness of the stock rotor and the piston travel in the calipers becomes excessive).

Please don't be put off using the 954S's as I think they're great value, even with machining (which can usually be done for $30-50 cash for the pair) - remembering stock rotors aren't slotted, even if you fork out $230+ each for new rotors from Nissan. The (S2) stag just has to be so damn difficult to match stock rotors and pads :)

Edited by DaveB
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fitted up some new rear brakes last night

they were the 2pot rears off an r33 onto an rs4s (s2)

had to trim the surround, but only around the callipers, the new rotors were only a tiny bit bigger (~2mm) and only a tiny bit thicker (~2mm max) so the new rotors fitted under the backing plate without modification

i'll post photos when i find them

as for brake lines, i just removed the olive from the calliper and used the stock lines, i'll get custom ones made up one day

how many ppl have had a spongy pedal after changing their brakes? are you meant to bleed the brakes with the ignition on for the abs?

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I had a hella spongy pedal after fitting the new front brakes. Did some extensive bleeding on all corners and it's excellent now, didn't have IGN on and didn't touch the ABS unit.

Oh and fitted the master cylinder stopper last night, MUCH more direct pedal feel.

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Fitted DBA4000 rotrs to the rear of my stag about 3 months ago: MUCH better than the factory GTR rotors... Still have too much front brake bias (on abs lockup, the fronts go mad), but I put it down the massive difference in rotor size between 380mm(??) front (w/Porsche/Brembo 4 pots) and factory gtr Brembo (measurements???) rear. Looking to either swap the fronts to the rear and get larger fronts, or maybe explore the options regarding larger rear rotor/caliper combos. Problem is, they need to fit inside 18" wheels, and the current front clearance between calipers and wheels is marginal.

That said, it already stops better then any relatively affordable car I have driven to date...

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Fitted DBA4000 rotrs to the rear of my stag about 3 months ago: MUCH better than the factory GTR rotors... Still have too much front brake bias (on abs lockup, the fronts go mad), but I put it down the massive difference in rotor size between 380mm(??) front (w/Porsche/Brembo 4 pots) and factory gtr Brembo (measurements???) rear. Looking to either swap the fronts to the rear and get larger fronts, or maybe explore the options regarding larger rear rotor/caliper combos. Problem is, they need to fit inside 18" wheels, and the current front clearance between calipers and wheels is marginal.

That said, it already stops better then any relatively affordable car I have driven to date...

a1rm pads for the rear? they are supposed to be pretty grippy

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Actually, I was due for pads when I ordered the new rotors, so went with Endless on the rear... Can't say for sure that they are better, as I changed both pads and rotors at the same time, but it stops heaps better now... Fronts still run whatever pad Porsche use, and they're fantastic...

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  • 1 month later...

About brake lines for 260rs.All i can make out is 260rs front brake lines are the same as the r33gtr front lines. As stated by a fellow member (cruisin fast). THe said something about the rears have a different connectors to it. Bu cruisinfast didnt leave any specifics on it. Sooo. Are the rear lines the same as the RS4s? or wat else?

I know the pads are the same as the r33 gtrs.

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About brake lines for 260rs.All i can make out is 260rs front brake lines are the same as the r33gtr front lines. As stated by a fellow member (cruisin fast). THe said something about the rears have a different connectors to it. Bu cruisinfast didnt leave any specifics on it. Sooo. Are the rear lines the same as the RS4s? or wat else?

I know the pads are the same as the r33 gtrs.

Hi Yudy, 260RS rear brake lines are unique. At least the inboard swaged end fitting is not/was not available, (2008~2009) which makes the assembly difficult to reproduce. I used the GTR Nismo (or ARC can't remember) braided rear lines but made new chassis brackets using the existing mounting points. Worked for me, got pics somewher if you are interested.

Cheers GW

Living the dream in the Pilbara.

Edited by 260tech
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would help if more READ what`s in here then POSTING CRAP :banana:

MIN THICKNESS SHOULD BE ON STOCK ROTOR,

I sort of agree Chuckie, but faark mate, 40 pages?

Maybe a massive clean up is needed, cull out all the chitchat. Or edit so the factual stuff is in the first page.

Just a thought.

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Hi Yudy, 260RS rear brake lines are unique. At least the inboard swaged end fitting is not/was not available, (2008~2009) which makes the assembly difficult to reproduce. I used the GTR Nismo (or ARC can't remember) braided rear lines but made new chassis brackets using the existing mounting points. Worked for me, got pics somewher if you are interested.

Cheers GW

Living the dream in the Pilbara.

Hi Gw,

So what your are saying is im able to use the R33gtrs rear lines to be used on the rears of the 260rs with minor modification to the brackets and using the existing mounting hole? If so i can live with that!! :banana: . If you dont mind, can you post up some pics please?! thanks pal. BTW did you change your clutch lines to the braided ones as well?

cheers,

Yudy

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I sort of agree Chuckie, but faark mate, 40 pages?

Maybe a massive clean up is needed, cull out all the chitchat. Or edit so the factual stuff is in the first page.

Just a thought.

Yea probably we should just clean it up and put the whole info needed on a spreadsheet. That wil clear up a lot of the posts.

cheers,

Yudy

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  • 4 weeks later...

ok just wana clear this up, after 40 pages i think ive got it right but just want to 100% confirm it.

-R34GTT Front and rear calipers and rotors will fit perfectly (apart from trimming backing plates and messing with the front lines) on my S2 RS4-S (manual)?

-But rears WONT fit IF it was an AUTO RS4 due to the wider track/different offset rear?

-also all 2 pot non sliding rear calipers are all the same fitment from R32 to R34? (maybe minus GTR brembos)?

-if so does this mean all rear rotors are the same too? thickness and diameter?

-also those brake supports that stop the boost flexing on the firewall all stagea can use one of R33 fitment?

-my currant handbrake shoes will work with any of the 32>34 rear rotors?

in theory if i got hold of front calipers and rotors off a R34GTT and say rear calipers and rotors from a R32/R32(nonGTR) i would have no fitment issues apart from lines and backing plates and different caliper fittings on the front?

Cheers.

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in theory if i got hold of front calipers and rotors off a R34GTT and say rear calipers and rotors from a R32/R32(nonGTR) i would have no fitment issues apart from lines and backing plates and different caliper fittings on the front?

Cheers.

exactly my setup atm

using stock stagea brake lines all round

use the r33 lines on the back tho, if you get everything

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cheers heaps mate, so the fittings are the same? i take it the r33 rear lines are longer?

bolts all bolt up the same but the olive in the bottom of the r33 calliper has to come out for stagea callipers

i'd say get the 33 lines if you can

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you mean the olive has to come out of the rear R33 calipers to suit the rear stagea brake lines? cheers for clearing this up for me mate, just wanted to be 100%

if you want to use stock stagea lines front or back, you have to remove the olive as stock brakes use a different style of seal but they all have the same bolt size

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I drove my 2002 stagea m35 ARX series 2, for the first time yesterday and was advised by the person compiling the car to have the rear brakes reconditioned.( The car had been idle for 3 months on a wharf)

The brakes had frozen and were quite rusted on the outside.he worked on them but

When I drive it feels like the brakes are slightly on or I have the handbrake on.

Which reputable company do I take it to in Brisbane and what does reconditioning actually mean?

better yet who should I not take it to.

What brakes are compatable as I doubt the brake technicians will know what is or is not available for this model.

eg Can the Nissan 350 Z brake setup be used?

of the 4 different series 2 stageas are the brakes the same in all models?

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