Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Brakes

Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

Stock setup would probably have been fine - BM50 m/c but I have fitted a GTR one BM57 which will have slightly less travel but require more effort. Auto booster should be fine.

  • Replies 1.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .

Daleo
Daleo

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is. Where have you been all my life? Also; Tyres, not tires. Welcome to Australia.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

Posted Images

Sunkist Grand Master

Sunkist

Posted
Posted

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

i was talking to scott about it.. actually doesnt seem to hard to make one.. maybe we will..

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

Get someone to push on the brake pedal, while you look at the firewall flex behind booster; I reckon it would be a worthwhile addition.

It could likely be done for less; might have to take a look.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if there is any difference between a Stagea Series 2 and a GT-t brake master cylinder.

They list different part numbers but both appear identical and are both BM50's?

I have searched previous posts from Darrin after his GT-t brake upgrade but I haven't found any information on potential differences.

FHF Enthusiast

FHF

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know the reason for an early DTV (disk thickness variation) on M35 brakes? Apparently a few people have had this problem already...

Thinking of putting new pads, machine the discs and check that the brake hub is not causing this...

Has anyone done all that and had the problem happening again?

Thanks in advance...

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to decide whether to replace all my rotors with slotted ones or just get them machined. They've got enough left in them to just get them machined I think, and the rears need it badly. I've got HPX pads sitting here ready to go in, was going to try and do it all at once.

DeanR33 Enthusiast

DeanR33

Posted
Posted

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear,

i did mine & couldn`t tell difference in stock to GTR setup ,

with fronts just get Sloted rotors & braided lines good pads & BRAKESTOPPER,

you spend $300+ on calipers & another $300+ on Rotors ,& still need to pads LINES & brakestopper ,so $10000 on brakes lol.

i spent $500 doing all mine & VERY HAPPY ,

Fully appreciate what you're saying, but I priced up a new caliper and pads and for not much more I've managed to find some R33 GTST brembo discs, ferodo pads(both with about 1000miles use) and good used gtst calipers. I've already got a 330mm front discs conversion and DS2500 pads with R32GTR calipers. I was never expecting a great increase in stopping power from the rears but every bit helps.

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

Pretty sure I sent you the UAS stopper Bob.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at getting new disks for my car, rather than seeing if I can machine the standard ones.

Just wondering what other people are running?

GSL supply RDA and DBA rotors, and looking at DBA, probably in either slotted or cross drilled.

Obviously the more you spend the better performance you're going to get, but I think with most things you get to a point where spending more money isn't worthwhile on a road car.

I've always heard that cross drilled rotors are a bad idea for street use, but DBA say this is no longer the case, and they've found the same or increased pad life with their new cross drilled XS rotors.

Like to hear other peoples experiences, although I'm pretty sure any decent slotted rotor will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • silviaz
      R34 GTT idle problem

      By silviaz · Posted

      I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • AdiR34
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...