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Stagea Brakes

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RSFOURDayz Experienced

RSFOURDayz

Posted
Posted

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

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chuckie
chuckie

IT is in a 1700KG WAGON & one built in 1998, with 298 mm Rotors ,just wonder off & play please .

Daleo
Daleo

We really are lucky to have you here to tell us how it is. Where have you been all my life? Also; Tyres, not tires. Welcome to Australia.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

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pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

1. Return shitty pads

2. Order remsa pads from GSLRallysports (sp?)

3. Fit remsa pads

4. ?????????

5. Profit

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pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

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Posted

Yeah I took them back, turned out to be bloody 200sx pads or some shit... Just gonna order some cheapy QFM ones from gsl

Remsa is only $10 more than the qfm hpx and are supposed to be a bit better again

Either way you can't go wrong

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Remsas kick arse!

Mine are fully bedded in now; really easy to modulate, stops freakin' hard, no squealing either.

Get some.

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Dust?

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

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bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

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As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

Ah. I remember when I had white wheels.

But alas, that was two weeks ago, when I last washed it.

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M35 Collaborator

M35

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Posted

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

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Posted

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shield. Cut accordingly.

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PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

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The 32R discs are a couple of mm wider, and require a little custom work on the old knuckle. Also make note, clearances may be different when turning steering, and when discs are hot hot.

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M35 Collaborator

M35

Posted
Posted

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shieldy. Cut accordingly.

Yeah I rotated the rotor and it scored the dust shield nicely so i can cut nicely around it. The new rotor will also need to be skimmed before it gets fitted on. The r34 back ID rotor is alot shallower compare to the stagea rotors. It just Im not sure how much is needed to grind off the knucke. Will it weaken it? It seems ARX-four maybe has a different offsets or knuckle/hub assembly?

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