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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I will buy alibaba site  brake kit. 

Only 515$ brake kit + shipping 180$

https://f2rq3.app.goo.gl/?link=https%3A%2F%2Fm.alibaba.com%2Fproduct%2F60567820585%2FTEI-P60-Car-Disc-Brake-Kit.html&apn=com.alibaba.intl.android.apps.poseidon&ibi=com.alibaba.sourcing&isi=503451073&amv=69

 

One set ordered for my friends supra. I will take some pictures when brakes arrived.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...

had a few problems and that is the reason why it takes so long to arrived here.

 

2 packages had to come. one arrived today and tomorrow another one.

TNT is a supplier of packet

 

Disk is 355mm and 6 piston calibers

This kit cost 780 usd.

I will take new picture after all parts has arrived.

20170302_084837.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

NM35 brake rotor and pad part numbers ...

Front (for R34 GTT 4-pot calipers - not standard Stagea fronts)
RDA Dimpled Slotted Rotors, 310 x 30mm: Part No. RDA7597D
Project Mu NS400 pads: Part No. F236

Rear (for standard Stagea NM35 rear calipers)
RDA Dimpled Slotted Rotors, 296 x 24mm: Part No. RDA7657D
Project Mu NS400 pads: Part No. R209

In case it saves someone some searching.

Edited by Darkmeat
OCD. Something bad was gonna happen if I didn't.
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Has anyone also upgraded the brake booster and master cylinder?

I been investigating this for the s2 stag with r34gtt calipers etc all round.

Some advise they get softer pedal feel or abs doesn't activate like it used to.

Suggestions i've seen are to go the r34gtt brake booster/master cylinder also, 

however they both quote BM50... So whats the diff? is the booster different?

(the only physical difference looking at pics online seems to be the reservoir)

Cheers,

Pete

My memory is going but I believe when I up graded to GTT brakes I kept the stock M/C and booster which was  fine for the job. When I fitted D2 330mm brakes to the front and GTR brakes to the rear I changed the master cylinder (kept the stock booster IIRC)  to BM57 with no ill effects (pulled up straight at high speeds on the track).

And I'm running 32 GTR rear and ATTKD 330mm/8 piston fronts with the standard booster and master cylinder without pedal issues.

What problem are you trying to solve? Because mushy/long pedals almost always come down to bleeding or sometimes pad break in

Thanks Duncan and Bob.

1-2cm extra pedal travel, a tad soft compared to original.

Previously could just rest / weight of my foot on brake pedal to start pulling up. 

Does the much same after swap, but needs a bit extra pressure applied.

Not triggering abs like used to, which was quite easy previously. 

Doesn't feel spongy/sloppy, pulls up a lot better than original setup.

I've bled all calipers, cleared any air bubbles.

Maybe i do the bleed procedure again. RL, RR, FL, FR

Wish to get it back to where it was with just lightest of pedal push.

Cheers,

Pete

 

My pedal is also soft, using the r33 f+r setup. It's pretty normal for this to happen when using bigger/more pistons.

I was going to get a bm57 like most people do, but for the money i've learnt to live with it.

 

It's up to you, Pete. If it annoys you that much get a bm57, if not just let it go and you'll soon forget about it, till you drive a properly setup car... or a new car :P 

  • Like 1

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