Wolf Ecu

[Blk33]

** Have updated lost Pictures **

Part 1

The Wolf R33 ECU GTSt plug a play version allows one to pull out the old ECU and plug in the new ECU… well almost. A few decisions have to be made prior to the installation.

1. Air flow sensor or internal map sensor? - I chose to use the internal ECU map sensor which allows the removal of the air flow sensor which will eventually limit power levels.

2. Air temperature sensor has to be mounted if using a map sensor. – Where to locate it?

3. Adjustable boost controller valve controlled by ECU? – I chose to the use the ECU boost controller which meant I could remove the bleed valve. I had to upgrade the valve size.

The standard ECU is shown on the left and the Wolf on the right

Air Temperature Sensor Installation into Pipe

The Wolf requires an air temperature sensor to be fitted. Rather than drill holes in my standard intake pipe, I purchased a second hand pipe. This allowed fabrication in preparation before installation.

Temperature sensor mounted into intake pipe

The intake pipe was drilled, tapped and air intake sensor fitted to the intake pipe. I chose a location near the blow off valve as the pipe has a thicker ridge.

Temperature sensor installed into the car, you would hardly notice it.

While I was installing the intake pipe, I also made a two-wire wiring loom for the air temperature sensor. I cut the hose to the blow off valve, inserted a tee piece, and ran a tube through the firewall along with the temperature sensor wires for the ECU later on.

Modifications to Wolf ECU board

The notes supplied with the Wolf ECU showed the temperature sensor mapped into a spare pin on the wiring loom. I chose not to do this but to cut tracks on the WOLF ECU and hard wire the temperature sensor via a plug and socket directly into the new ECU. I did this so I could plug the standard ECU back into the wiring loom at any time.

Note green and back wiring loom for temperature sensor and hose for map sensor

Time to fit the Wolf ECU

Most manuals suggest the vehicle battery is disconnected before any attempt at removing the ECU.

Disconnecting the Battery

The R33 has it’s battery in the boot. Remove the back cover, which has 3 clips holding it in place.

Usual practice is to remove the negative terminal first (left terminal).

Removing ECU

Once the battery is disconnected it is time to remove the ECU from the passenger kick panel.

Remove nut holding the kick panel in place and remove the kick panel.

Once the kick panel is off, remove 2 nuts on the firewall and lower sill.

To remove the wiring loom use a 10mm socket and ratchet, as the bolt unwinds, it will lift the loom connector out with it.

Attaching the Wolf to the Wiring Loom

The Wolf has some nice features like a MAP sensor which replaces the mass airflow sensor. This means no upgrades are required later on when you increase the power output of the engine. As previously mentioned the tube from the manifold and the air temperature has already been fed through the firewall. Attach these along with the wiring loom to the Wolf. Another nice feature of the Wolf is it interfaces to a laptop computer

Picture shows the Wolf on a box attached to manifold hose, air sensor, R33 wiring loom and the laptop

First Engine Start

At last it is ready to start the engine. The Wolf comes with base mapping tune that is very rich and does not have much timing advance. Turn the ignition on, ensure the lights on the Wolf ECU light up. Listen for the fuel pump that should run for about 2 seconds and then turn off. Assuming the Wolf software has been loaded onto the laptop, connect the cable and synchronise the Wolf with the laptop. A quick check of the laptop software should show maps for fuel timing etc. A fair amount of time was required to get a good feel for how the software works. My engine took quite a bit of cranking before it started. When it kicked, it started and then stopped. This went on a few times and finally by pumping the throttle feverishly the engine started. Once I had started the engine and warmed it up a little, the engine would start OK.

A short drive revealed the base maps quite adequate but it definitely required tuning.

Boost Controller Solenoid

Martin recommended the boost solenoid be replaced with a larger boost solenoid that can control the air bleed function better than the original solenoid.

Solenoid supplied by EFI Hardware mounted on the standard frame and wiring plug attached.

Tuning

A few weeks later I had the engine tuned by Martin at EFI Hardware. Martin dyno tuned the engine after loading a tuning map he had previously used. Following this tune, the car was transformed and turned the rear wheels at about 180kW with about 12psi boost.

I must say I have spent the last year fine tuning the drivability of the car; starting, idle, with air conditioner on and off, lights etc. All these seem to affect the idle characteristics. It is still not as good as the original ECU in those respects but it is pretty good.

Part 2 - Mounting and Part 3 - FAQ

See below in this thread

Edited May 10, 2006 by Blk33

[Packy]

Very good, i had mine installed and tuned by a workshop.

Although i never got any air temp sensor or how to put one in or anything.

One thing I would like to know is did/do you have any probs with Turbo timer mode coming up when you start the car???

Can't wait to see how you mounted yours. I've got my on the floor where the passenger puts their feet. Later on, i'll put a false floor over it. I've got the hand controller tucked in the glovebox neatly.

[Blk33]

Part 2 - Mounting

Up until now, the ECU has had its first dyno run and tuned by EFI Hardware. The car has been running well and I have continued to play with adjustments with the software to make it drive better. At this stage the Wolf ECU had been sitting on the floor on the passenger side. Not a good long term prospect!

I tried several ways to mount the Wolf into the space where the original ECU came out of. In the end I decided the Wolf case was much deeper than the original ECU and because of this, I would continue to have difficulty in replacing the kick panel. I really wanted to keep the car looking standard in all aspects as possible.

One day while looking through for sales in SAU, I notice a cheap ECU box for a R33. This gave me an idea; maybe the Wolf ECU printed circuit board (PCB) would fit into the standard ECU box. Some rough checking of the sizes of each PCB indicated it may fit. I duly purchased the standard ECU from Queensland and started disassembling the original case and PCB to see how I could fit the Wolf PCB.

Wolf PCB removed from its case

I decided to glue four plastic mounting brackets to the back lid of the old case and then slid the Wolf PCB into theses brackets. The back lid was then screwed to the chassis. In order to do this, I had to file a substantial amount from one end of the aluminium case where the Wolf connectors and indicator leds sit. I then fabricated a piece of thick aluminium between the case and the Wolf PCB output transistors so the case would act as a heat sink. The Wolf PCB required a little trimming in one corner, and a little trimmed from the rear lid as well.

Wolf PCB mounted into old ECU case

A little insulation tape in the right place just in case the PCB moved, mounted the top lid and wallah!

Newly assembled Wolf with the lids on (Wolf on the right)

Mounting the new Wolf ECU box is now as easy as mounting or removing the original box!

Finished and installed, only the kick panel to go. Which one is the Wolf?

Would I do it again? I don’t think so!

Edited May 12, 2006 by Blk33

[midnight]

good work, sweet retrofit, means you wont get defected for aftermarket ecu either.

[burnfest]

I have also have one I got secondhand. Was the air temp sensor included with the wolf? and did you have to tell the wolf what pins you connected it up to? All I got was a big tuning booklet and no infomation about installation etc.

Nice guide.

[Blk33]

Very good, i had mine installed and tuned by a workshop.

Although i never got any air temp sensor or how to put one in or anything.

One thing I would like to know is did/do you have any probs with Turbo timer mode coming up when you start the car???

Can't wait to see how you mounted yours. I've got my on the floor where the passenger puts their feet. Later on, i'll put a false floor over it. I've got the hand controller tucked in the glovebox neatly.

Check out mounting http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=82100

[Blk33]

I have also have one I got secondhand. Was the air temp sensor included with the wolf? and did you have to tell the wolf what pins you connected it up to? All I got was a big tuning booklet and no infomation about installation etc.

Nice guide.

The Wolf web site is a good source of data.

http://www.wolfems.com.au/home

If you view the Installation Manual, page 27 gives the pin outs for the temperature sensor. A Delco temperature sensor is used. I bought my Wolf through Steve Newing at EFI Hardware. http://www.efihardware.com/

I'm sure he would ship one up north if you wanted.

Cheers

Rob

[Packy]

now that is smick.

I'd do it but i don't wanna pull apart my wolf ecu or the standard box either.

Top marks for doing it though

[Blk33]

Part 3 - FAQ

What does the ECU Look Like?

From left, Wolf box, standard ECU and Wolf on the right

How much does the Wolf ECU Cost?

I chose a Wolf3D PlugIn for R33 GTST at around $1395 from suppliers

Where is the Wolf 3D Plug in available from?

The Advanced Engine Management web site has an up to date list of suppliers in all states; http://www.wolfems.com.au/company/dealers/australia

Support?

Support is supplied by the factory at Advanced Engine Management web site: http://www.wolfems.com.au/home

You can download the laptop software; print comprehensive manuals get updated technical bulletins.

E-mail support is also provided by the manufacturer.

Ease of Installation?

Not easy – complex! Manuals provided are very extensive but additional expertise is still required by the installer. If you want to do it yourself, find a good supplier that will provide additional support for you. See part 1 for ideas on installation complexity.

Does the ECU work on Autos?

I believe the Wolf will only support manual transmissions. There is no provision to provide information for the automatic gearbox.

What is the Wolf Resolution?

Maps for fuel and timing, 16 load bands by 125 RPM steps up to 15,000RPM

How is the Wolf Tuned?

Tuning is achieved by a Hand Controller or by software loaded onto a laptop computer. The software can be down loaded from the manufactures web site. It is free and no software keys are required. Any one can download it and try it. I had a spare laptop, so I chose to use the laptop method of tuning.

The base fuel and timing is calculated by the engine RPM and engine load at each location. These are then changed by numerous other modifiers such as engine temperature, air temperature battery voltage etc.

Picture of Wolf screen on the laptop

The X Axis is RPM, and the Y Axis is the engine load. I have shown 5 areas or bands on the Y Axis, Trailing throttle, Idle, Cruise, Atmosphere and Boost. Load band 93 represents about 12 psi boost and load band 107 would represent about 20 psi boost. In the example shown above, the engine is idling at 750 RPM with a load of about 21, thus the fuel injectors would be open for 1.44mS. Ignition timing is calculated in a similar way.

The Wolf comes from the factory with a safe base map for the ignition and timing. You will need to find someone who can tune the ECU for you on a dyno. Martin at EFI Hardware did the initial dyno tuning for me. http://www.efihardware.com He downloaded a work in progress map to start dyno tuning with. This kind of assistance saved heaps of time and money. From there, one to two hours on the dyno will have the tuning pretty close to optimum.

After the Dyno, what then?

1. Cruise Loads

The basic cruise loads were done on the dyno and were relatively easy to map. I was keen to ensure the air fuel ratio was at 14.7 to ensure good fuel economy. I have since driven thousands of kilometres (maybe a few times) up and down Melbourne’s Eastern Freeway over the last year. I load the engine in the cruising range at each RPM and adjust the air fuel ratio for 14.7. Now finished, at any load in the cruise range between 2000 and 5000 RPM the air fuel meter sits around 14.7. On a trip with the occasional overtaking I can easily see 500 to 600 Km out of a tank of gas!

2. Starting

Starting was easy after I read the manual many times as there are many options. The engine now starts very easily in Melbourne’s current cold weather of 5 degrees and also on 40 degree plus days in summer.

3. Idle

Idle tuning has been the most difficulty for me to get right. It appears it is difficult to get this right with a MAP sensor. People have suggested I remove the MAP sensor and go back to the mass air flow sensor which will measure the engine load more accurately at idle (maybe another day). It appears when addition light load is added to the engine by way of the alternator, under some certain circumstances the engine will hunt. For example if you turn on the parking lights, fog lights, heated rear window or maybe the air conditioning etc, the load on the engine will change, and the fuel demand changes. Anyway I now have a nice compromise with the air fuel ratio set about 12.5. As the load increases I enrich the fuel slightly.

What do you use to Tune the Wolf?

As part of my obsession to get the tuning of the ECU better than the original ECU, I purchased a Tech Edge Air Fuel meter. http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ This uses a wide band oxygen sensor which updates at about 5 samples per second and allows accurate measurement of the Air Fuel Ratio. I had anticipated using one of these before I fitted my dump pipe and had a suitable bung fitted. This took all the guess work out of tuning the engine.

What are the Nice Features?

Laptop interface, lots of adjustments, easy to use, save or reload your maps.

You can purchase a hand controller at additional cost and use this instead of the laptop.

MAP sensor on board to 20 PSI

Boost Control – Programming boost solenoid bleed value every 125 RPM

Diagram showing Boost Pressure Value

Over boost limit

Rev limiter

Thermo fan control

Spare outputs and inputs

And more!

11 Sept 2005 Images updated.

13 May 2006 Images updated again

Cheers

Edited May 12, 2006 by Blk33

[Blk33]

Have updated part 1, Will do part 2 and part 3 over the weekend.

[paulr33]

well done, thanks

[RiCkY TuTtY]

i cant find anywhere else on this site that i could ask a Q about this item??? can someone point me in the correct path??? i need urgent help!

[Blk33]

i cant find anywhere else on this site that i could ask a Q about this item??? can someone point me in the correct path??? i need urgent help!

Hi,

What is your question? I may be able to hep if it is to do with the Wolf ECU.

Cheers

Rob

[RiCkY TuTtY]

have a v4 with hand controller which comes with a loom (aka not a plug n play item, loom is modified for tx3 turbo) so i bought a 76 pin connector to replace my r32 rb20det ecu in my vl... but, the connector and the wolf 3d's plug for the loom is totally different!

Edited July 26, 2008 by RiCkY TuTtY

[Blk33]

have a v4 with hand controller which comes with a loom (aka not a plug n play item, loom is modified for tx3 turbo) so i bought a 76 pin connector to replace my r32 rb20det ecu in my vl... but, the connector and the wolf 3d's plug for the loom is totally different!

Suggest you contact the manufacturer - they may be able to assist.

http://www.wolfems.com.au/

If you check the WEB site, click on downloads, and then select manuals, you may be able to determine the pinouts required.

Sounds like a big job.

Good luck.

Rob

[boostin31]

After the Dyno, what then?

1. Cruise Loads

The basic cruise loads were done on the dyno and were relatively easy to map. I was keen to ensure the air fuel ratio was at 14.7 to ensure good fuel economy. I have since driven thousands of kilometres (maybe a few times) up and down Melbourne's Eastern Freeway over the last year. I load the engine in the cruising range at each RPM and adjust the air fuel ratio for 14.7. Now finished, at any load in the cruise range between 2000 and 5000 RPM the air fuel meter sits around 14.7. On a trip with the occasional overtaking I can easily see 500 to 600 Km out of a tank of gas!

im sure you can go leaner than 14.7 on cruise. i think around 17.1 is the norm for factory cars! should be ok for light loads

[Blk33]

hey, just been reading your wolf 3d install and using it to help me install mine. ive got it alll sorted out except for one bit. The Air temp sensor. cant figure out how to wire it in. Im not to keen on pulling the the unit apart just wanted to wire it into the plug i was wondering if you could provide any info that would help me out.

I realise you wrote this along time ago but thought i would give it a try because im dead set stuck

Thanks

Landy

Hi Landy,

After a bit of head scratching I realised the answer to your question is in the article!

Modifications to Wolf ECU board

The notes supplied with the Wolf ECU showed the temperature sensor mapped into a spare pin on the wiring loom. I chose not to do this but to cut tracks on the WOLF ECU and hard wire the temperature sensor via a plug and socket directly into the new ECU. I did this so I could plug the standard ECU back into the wiring loom at any time.

The picture shows 2 wires for the air temperature terminating inside the ecu.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Rob

[Rbsongate]

hey does anyone know who tunes the 3d v4 in perth?